An impossible thing we might have seen one day


airhead

 

Posted

I've never done 3D printing, so I didn't realize the plastic was that sturdy. Printing anything as a "growing tree" is something I've seen in various demos, though, so it makes perfect sense to print the caped figure upside down. I know in one early demo they had to print a model airplane sideways since that's the only way it would fit into the printer, but that was just a space issue rather than one of connection.


The Alt Alphabet ~ OPC: Other People's Characters ~ Terrific Screenshots of Cool ~ Superhero Fiction

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ironik View Post
I've never done 3D printing, so I didn't realize the plastic was that sturdy.
Once it hardens, ABS is almost indestructible.

Interestingly, however, acetone dissolves it. So you can theoretically use acetone to smooth out an ABS printed model. I tried it with a small brush and some acetone, and it worked, insofar as I was making it up as I was going along. But you have to be careful, because acetone doesn't eat plastic perfectly evenly, especially when its been laid out with an extrusion printer.

I didn't do that with the model above, though. That just has the support scaffolding cut away with a hobby knife but no other finish work. Also, funny thing about the size limits of 3D printers. That picture doesn't go all the way down to the bottom because the model doesn't go all the way to the bottom. I forgot to scale that model correctly and it hit the vertical stops in the Cupcake just below the knees and just a hair below the cape. Its actually tilted slightly backward and resting on the bottom of the cape as a result. Oops.

Shame, because extrusion printers print ovalish cylinders quite well. Which means on most prints, LA there has nice gams. Also, even something like strappy heels actually print fairly well. I have another model where the entire model printed out pretty well. And then I tried the acetone experiment above. And then I accidentally left the model sitting in the pan touching some acetone, and those heels completely melted off.


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Posted

Capes would need to be given some depth, but not much. Using a cloth simulator where parts of the cape can rest on the figure will help in supporting.

I have my eye set on using Shapeways as a printing option and the process they use would allow, I think, for a capes without much support at the bottom.


 

Posted

Come to think of it...

...we could possibly print those Ascension armor pieces... to wear...


 

Posted

See if you can get it UVR printed, the stereolithography style doesn't have a very good resolution.


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by VoodooGirl View Post
Capes would need to be given some depth, but not much. Using a cloth simulator where parts of the cape can rest on the figure will help in supporting.

I have my eye set on using Shapeways as a printing option and the process they use would allow, I think, for a capes without much support at the bottom.
Shapeways appears to use (among other things) laser sintered printers and other powder-binding based printers. Those can print basically any shape without support structures because the powder acts to support the objects until they are completed.

Different print materials use different print processes, so that might be worth investigating a bit if you're thinking of using that option.


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Posted

Speaking of powered plastic, can you hand-paint layers on to the finished models? (Or, you know, fill in the pitting caused by inattentive acetone usage?) I remember a friend of mine was talking about a corn(?)-based plastic with a really, really low melting point...


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack_NoMind View Post
Speaking of powered plastic, can you hand-paint layers on to the finished models? (Or, you know, fill in the pitting caused by inattentive acetone usage?) I remember a friend of mine was talking about a corn(?)-based plastic with a really, really low melting point...
Your friend was probably referring to PLA, the other popular plastic used in hobbyist extrusion printers. As far as I know, with some reasonable priming steps both ABS and PLA can be hand painted. I'm not sure about the other materials Shapeways uses, but I'm assuming its similar.


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Posted

All I know is that if you combo it with one of these, you can automate the smell of this complete breakfast.

But what I meant was, can you paint layers of plastic on to the model? That's something you can do with like greenstuff for other modelling.

Edit : Now I'm learning about glass transition temperatures! Friendship is science!

Edit 2 : The answer to my earlier question appears to be no (I'm not sure how you would hand-apply a semisolid with any kind of manageable tool), but I'm looking into resin bonding to those plastics. I don't see any obvious problems although it may also require primer.


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack_NoMind View Post
All I know is that if you combo it with one of these, you can automate the smell of this complete breakfast.

But what I meant was, can you paint layers of plastic on to the model? That's something you can do with like greenstuff for other modelling.

Edit : Now I'm learning about glass transition temperatures! Friendship is science!

Edit 2 : The answer to my earlier question appears to be no (I'm not sure how you would hand-apply a semisolid with any kind of manageable tool), but I'm looking into resin bonding to those plastics. I don't see any obvious problems although it may also require primer.
You can't "paint" with ABS unless you happen to be on Venus, but you might be able to coat the models with some other material.

You can also sand it to a relatively smooth finish and then sort of wipe it with acetone which gives the sanded surface a glassy finish.


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Posted

I'm thinking specifically about adding surface detail in thicknesses (wanted to say 'granularity') below the threshhold of the extruder. You can do it with acrylic paint, but the tactile feel is weird and it tends to deform. You can do it with enamel, but it's a slow and frankly stupid process and the end result is brittle (and often surprisingly lumpy, in my experience). Craft resins or some sort of polymer putty or clay are typically used but I was thinking that, hey, you're already working with something that seems kind of like a resin, couldn't you just use more of it?

And no. You could, with a great deal of protective gear, paint on layers of PLA... but it would warp the model as you were doing so.

(I... may have been a wargamer. In a past life. I swear I've reformed.)


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Poison View Post
Damn, Spino, those are awesome!
Thanks Poison, and also, you drew a version of them once


 

Posted

you could use them to make moulds and then cast them in resin I suppose.

Hmm, that way you could sculpt on all kinds of extra detail with greenstuff before casting.


 

Posted

What a completely awesome thread!

Thank you for sharing this with us Arcanaville! I've got access to a higher-res printer, and may have to try this.

Things to take away:

1: Arcanaville is amazing and awesome.
2: Demorecord, demorecord, demorecord!
3: Save your characters with the Sentinel+ tool so you can edit them into demorecords if you have to.
4: Arcanaville is amazing and awesome!


I'm such a geek. Some of my heroes have journals.

 

Posted

This is one of the most interesting and informative threads I've ever seen. Please, keep up the (awesome) work, everybody.


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Formerly known as YFNDBA

 

Posted

Make one of me! I never had a character in-game!


 

Posted

Hey, you can export the Singularity pet with demorecord, yeah?

Oh, but for the record, here's a (very, very) quick mock-up of how I think Pohsyb might've looked:


 

Posted



Close, but this was it


 

Posted

This reminds me of a project I started a few years ago. I'm a sculptor and I like to make miniatures. The friends I was playing with at the time had this supergroup where we all had characters with leadership and we only played when we could all play together. It was a lot of fun and gave me my first level 50 hero. At the time I decided i could make everybody miniatures of their characters to celebrate, ans then if that worked out, try to offer commisions. Unfortunaltly, due to Real Life, I only ever got one character finished.

No idea how to post images here, so here is a link:
http://pendix.deviantart.com/#/d5dyw60

Anyway, this whole 3D printing thing is awesome, many props to Arcana. I know a guy who works with some of these things, using this info I might try to got some of my characters printed, so, Thanks . (Although I'd probably have more fun sculpting them myself )


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Star_Seer View Post
I would love to paint up some of these.

I paint up toy soldiers for commission now days.
For example.

http://shuggnuggath.deviantart.com/gallery/30508147
Ditto for me.
I do woodcarving, and airbrushing (hairy brush too) as a hobby.

I'd be happy to see what can be done as far as painting these. I might have to look into paint types or material prep in case of adhesion problems.

If time isn't an issue, I'd do them very cheaply, basically material and shipping, for the community, in between other projects .... aka for the fun of it!

Pumpkin boards -after

Pumpkin boards -before

Carved and Painted - Dried Sweet Potatoes from AB MAG #2



Misc Painted Pumpkins

Carved Pumpkin
.


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pendix View Post
This reminds me of a project I started a few years ago. I'm a sculptor and I like to make miniatures. The friends I was playing with at the time had this supergroup where we all had characters with leadership and we only played when we could all play together. It was a lot of fun and gave me my first level 50 hero. At the time I decided i could make everybody miniatures of their characters to celebrate, ans then if that worked out, try to offer commisions. Unfortunaltly, due to Real Life, I only ever got one character finished.

No idea how to post images here, so here is a link:
http://pendix.deviantart.com/#/d5dyw60

Anyway, this whole 3D printing thing is awesome, many props to Arcana. I know a guy who works with some of these things, using this info I might try to got some of my characters printed, so, Thanks . (Although I'd probably have more fun sculpting them myself )
If I had any sort of artistic fabrication skill whatsoever, I might as well. I don't, so I'm forced to have robot slaves do all the work for me.


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Posted

Hi, I just wanted to give a little idea of what can be done with models from the game. Now this is a bit questionable in the legal sense, but if it becomes the only way to to keep characters, well... Someone just please let me know if I'm out of line in bringing this up.

There is this program called Miku Miku Dance. You can import models into the program and use it to pose them, add scenery and props, and make videos of them.

I haven't attempted it myself yet as I am lacking some of the skills needed to do it, but it should be possible to extract a character's model, add rigging and textures and such, and then I know for certain there is a plugin for Blender to convert to .pmd files which is what MMD reads.

I know it's a bit off-topic, but besides being used to preserve models it could also be handy for making poses for future 3D printing of the models. Just a thought.


 

Posted

It's not working for me...

I put the OpenGL32.dll in the game directory.

I put the GliConfig.ini in the game directory, check that it's not .ini.txt after edition.

Made sure I got all the Program files to (x86).

I renamed the OGLE folder in the plugins and it's the bin, not the C++ source files.

I uncommented the commands at the bottom of the ini file and changed the line too, added the command in the CoH launcher.

The ini file is working, I changed the activation keys and the grab work in part, I get a Frame_<number> folder everytime I try, I get all the images of power icons, inspirations, etc... but no .obj


I suppose I missed something but it's 4am and my brain is starting to ooze by my ears....


"Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself." ~Midnight Flux's former boss.

There are usually two sides to every argument but no end.

Everything placed above this line is always IMHO, YMMV and quite certainly not to be taken too seriously....

 

Posted

Double check to make sure you are using the OGLE gliconfig.ini from the OGLE directory and not the one from the GLintercept. The correct one should have a section near the bottom for the OGLE plugin that should look something like this:

Code:
PluginData
{

  BaseDir = "C:\Program Files (x86)\GLIntercept0_5\Plugins";

  Plugins
  {

    //
    // Name of plugin   |  Plugin load location
    // {  Plugin specific options. (See the plugins' config.ini file for options) }

    OGLE = ("OGLE/OGLE.dll") 
    {
    // See Plugins/OGLE/config.ini or OGLE README for description of 
    // OGLE plugin config settings

    Scale = 1.0;
    FlipPolygonStrips = True;
    CaptureNormals = False;
        CaptureTextureCoords = False;
    LogFunctions = False;
    ObjFileName = "ogle";
    FilePerFrame = False;
    FileInFrameDir = True;

    TRIANGLES = True;
    TRIANGLE_STRIP = True;
    TRIANGLE_FAN = True;
    QUADS = True;
    QUAD_STRIP = True;
    POLYGON = True;
    }
Also double check the line "FileInFrameDir = True" specifically; that is the line that tells the plugin to create the OBJ file with the Frame directory, as opposed to the default directory.


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Posted

Got it, I knew it was something simple...

the folder name is Program Files[very important space here](x86)

Thanks Aracanaville.


"Nothing is impossible for the man who doesn't have to do it himself." ~Midnight Flux's former boss.

There are usually two sides to every argument but no end.

Everything placed above this line is always IMHO, YMMV and quite certainly not to be taken too seriously....