New desktops, ivy bridge, and lockable cases - advice?


Father Xmas

 

Posted

Hey all,

Since this hell semester is finally winding down, I've decided it's time to replace the desktop that was stolen from me back in january. And, surprise surprise, there's a new set of processors just out to boot.

I was planning on doing something along the lines of Father Xmas' 1350$ build, which in the time since its last update has fallen to around 1200$. Toss out the 100$ for a copy of windows since I still have the copy from the last computer and it's around 1100$, which, once I add a monitor and keyboard, will be around what I want to pay.

The question comes with the new processors and associated parts. I'm knowledgeable enough to assemble a computer, install windows, etc, but I don't really feel confident on the picking out hardware side of things, and I *really* haven't had any time lately to pay attention to that sort of thing.

The processor on the old list is an i5-2500k, which goes for 220$ at the moment. Of the 7 ivy bridge processors available at newegg, the i5-3550 seems to be the closest equivalent, as far as I can tell. What I'm wondering, though, is what's the significance of the letters after the number? I *think* it has something to do with integrated graphics; correct me if I'm wrong, but that shouldn't be important for a build with a discrete graphics card, right (although then I'd wonder why it was in the last build)? Also, the main difference between i5 and i7 is the hyperthreading that gets two threads going per core, right? Am I correct in thinking that that doesn't make much difference if I'm not running a million programs at once, and therefore that I don't really need an i7? Basically, I don't really know the reasoning behind the choice of the original processor, so I'm not sure choosing the nearest equivalent ivy bridge version is correct.

I believe I'm supposed to be looking for Z77 chipset/socket LGA 1155 motherboards for ivy bridge. The old motherboard was an ASRock Z68 Extreme4 LGA 1155 board for about 180$. This seems to be the nearest equivalent Z77 motherboard - even somewhat cheaper. Again, though, I don't know what the reasoning for the original choice was, so I'm not sure if simply looking for the nearest equivalent is the right thing to do.

As for graphics, I was thinking of simply sticking with the EVGA GTX 560 that's in the old list. Is this still a good card? I notice it says it's a 'PCI express 2.0' card, while the motherboard lists 'PCI express 3.0' slots; will it actually work in that motherboard?

Will the cooler master 212 CPU cooler work with the new processor? I see that it says it works with the intel 1155 sockets; does that mean that it'll still fit the new processor? Also, a review for that particular motherboard mentioned that a similar cooler blocked the first memory slot and that they had to put their ram into slots 2 and 4 - they said it worked, but that seems like a really weird thing to me; I thought the first slot always had to be filled. Could this be a problem?

Finally, the case. I assume that the cooler master 690 case in the old list is a perfectly good case. Unfortunately, as near as I can tell, it doesn't seem to include any provision for locking the case shut (at least it doesn't look like it in the pictures). Given what happened to my last machine, I fully plan to lock this one shut and then bike lock the case itself to some holes drilled through the side of my heavy wooden desk (won't stop a persistent enough burglar, but ought to defeat the sort of smash and grab jerk who took the last one). I need an appropriate case, though, and it doesn't seem that case manufacturers think that locking provisions are important enough to note in their descriptions. I suppose I can drill holes in the thing for that purpose if I have to, but it seems simpler to just get one that already has a place to put a lock. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to go about finding such a case, or whether it'd just be simpler to just get this one and drill some holes (I can do that, especially since I'm guessing I'll have to drill holes for the bike cable anyway)?

Apart from all that, is there anything else on that list of parts that's out of date and should be updated? I'd rather not spend extra money, but if better stuff's now available for equivalent prices I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance!


@MuonNeutrino
Student, Gamer, Altaholic, and future Astronomer.

This is what it means to be a tank!

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muon_Neutrino View Post
Hey all,

Since this hell semester is finally winding down, I've decided it's time to replace the desktop that was stolen from me back in january. And, surprise surprise, there's a new set of processors just out to boot.

I was planning on doing something along the lines of Father Xmas' 1350$ build, which in the time since its last update has fallen to around 1200$. Toss out the 100$ for a copy of windows since I still have the copy from the last computer and it's around 1100$, which, once I add a monitor and keyboard, will be around what I want to pay.

The question comes with the new processors and associated parts. I'm knowledgeable enough to assemble a computer, install windows, etc, but I don't really feel confident on the picking out hardware side of things, and I *really* haven't had any time lately to pay attention to that sort of thing.

The processor on the old list is an i5-2500k, which goes for 220$ at the moment. Of the 7 ivy bridge processors available at newegg, the i5-3550 seems to be the closest equivalent, as far as I can tell. What I'm wondering, though, is what's the significance of the letters after the number? I *think* it has something to do with integrated graphics; correct me if I'm wrong, but that shouldn't be important for a build with a discrete graphics card, right (although then I'd wonder why it was in the last build)? Also, the main difference between i5 and i7 is the hyperthreading that gets two threads going per core, right? Am I correct in thinking that that doesn't make much difference if I'm not running a million programs at once, and therefore that I don't really need an i7? Basically, I don't really know the reasoning behind the choice of the original processor, so I'm not sure choosing the nearest equivalent ivy bridge version is correct.

I believe I'm supposed to be looking for Z77 chipset/socket LGA 1155 motherboards for ivy bridge. The old motherboard was an ASRock Z68 Extreme4 LGA 1155 board for about 180$. This seems to be the nearest equivalent Z77 motherboard - even somewhat cheaper. Again, though, I don't know what the reasoning for the original choice was, so I'm not sure if simply looking for the nearest equivalent is the right thing to do.

As for graphics, I was thinking of simply sticking with the EVGA GTX 560 that's in the old list. Is this still a good card? I notice it says it's a 'PCI express 2.0' card, while the motherboard lists 'PCI express 3.0' slots; will it actually work in that motherboard?

Will the cooler master 212 CPU cooler work with the new processor? I see that it says it works with the intel 1155 sockets; does that mean that it'll still fit the new processor? Also, a review for that particular motherboard mentioned that a similar cooler blocked the first memory slot and that they had to put their ram into slots 2 and 4 - they said it worked, but that seems like a really weird thing to me; I thought the first slot always had to be filled. Could this be a problem?

Finally, the case. I assume that the cooler master 690 case in the old list is a perfectly good case. Unfortunately, as near as I can tell, it doesn't seem to include any provision for locking the case shut (at least it doesn't look like it in the pictures). Given what happened to my last machine, I fully plan to lock this one shut and then bike lock the case itself to some holes drilled through the side of my heavy wooden desk (won't stop a persistent enough burglar, but ought to defeat the sort of smash and grab jerk who took the last one). I need an appropriate case, though, and it doesn't seem that case manufacturers think that locking provisions are important enough to note in their descriptions. I suppose I can drill holes in the thing for that purpose if I have to, but it seems simpler to just get one that already has a place to put a lock. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to go about finding such a case, or whether it'd just be simpler to just get this one and drill some holes (I can do that, especially since I'm guessing I'll have to drill holes for the bike cable anyway)?

Apart from all that, is there anything else on that list of parts that's out of date and should be updated? I'd rather not spend extra money, but if better stuff's now available for equivalent prices I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance!
3570K would be the new "hot" processor. The "K" stands for the easy overclocking. If it does not have it, the chip will be multiplier locked.

The 560 Ti is the Nvidia card you want if you have to buy now. The good thing is that EVGA has a 90 day step up program in case something new comes out soon. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16814130686 Its more performance for just $10 more than the 560.

Yes, the cooler master hyper 212 Evo or plus will work.

Well short of making the case soooo heavy that it can't be moved easily*, nothing will stop someone who is persistant.

*Of course you could be sued for injury!


H: Blaster 50, Defender 50, Tank 50, Scrapper 50, Controller 50, PB 50, WS 50
V: Brute 50, Corruptor 50, MM 50, Dominator 50, Stalker 50, AW 50, AS 50
Top 4: Controller, Brute, Scrapper, Corruptor
Bottom 4: (Peacebringer) way below everything else, Mastermind, Dominator, Blaster
CoH in WQHD

 

Posted

I'm not familiar with any locking cases. Sorry to hear about the burglary btw, that really sucks. You may have to drill some holes and lock it up yourself. Just make sure you clean out all the shavings before installing hardware.

The 3570k is the new 2500k, as the guy above mentioned. If you have no intention or care to overclock you can skip the k versions, that should save you some money. The integrated graphics don't matter much since you'll be using a discrete card.


 

Posted

I have the CM 690 case. It doesn't show it on the pictures, but there's a little loop for a lock when the side of the case is secured, yes. You can just kinda-sorta see it in the lower left here: (follow the top of the powr supply to the left.)


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Neogumbercules View Post
The 3570k is the new 2500k, as the guy above mentioned. If you have no intention or care to overclock you can skip the k versions, that should save you some money. The integrated graphics don't matter much since you'll be using a discrete card.
IvB has a few differences from SB in regards to the 'k' series. 'k' parts are 100Mhz faster than their normal counterparts (3.3 vs 3.4), with also 100Mhz higher max turbo speed (3.7 vs 3.8). 'k' parts lack some enterprise/virtualization (VT-d) related extensions, but it's unlikely the OP or anyone else in this thread would really care (well, I care about VT-d, but I'm weird ). Doesn't apply to the i5 'k' part, but the i7 'k' part (ignoring the GPU-less parts) has the same GPU as it's non-k counterpart.

If you're familiar with how things worked with the SandyBridge lineup, be careful when you're glancing over IvyBridge's lineup, because there's a few differences.


Quote:
Originally Posted by ShadowNate
;_; ?!?! What the heck is wrong with you, my god, I have never been so confused in my life!

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muon_Neutrino View Post
Hey all,

Since this hell semester is finally winding down, I've decided it's time to replace the desktop that was stolen from me back in january. And, surprise surprise, there's a new set of processors just out to boot.

I was planning on doing something along the lines of Father Xmas' 1350$ build, which in the time since its last update has fallen to around 1200$. Toss out the 100$ for a copy of windows since I still have the copy from the last computer and it's around 1100$, which, once I add a monitor and keyboard, will be around what I want to pay.
Since I don't count rebates or NewEgg "savings" it's still very close to my target price which includes a 5% hardware cost buffer.

Quote:
The question comes with the new processors and associated parts. I'm knowledgeable enough to assemble a computer, install windows, etc, but I don't really feel confident on the picking out hardware side of things, and I *really* haven't had any time lately to pay attention to that sort of thing.

The processor on the old list is an i5-2500k, which goes for 220$ at the moment. Of the 7 ivy bridge processors available at newegg, the i5-3550 seems to be the closest equivalent, as far as I can tell. What I'm wondering, though, is what's the significance of the letters after the number? I *think* it has something to do with integrated graphics; correct me if I'm wrong, but that shouldn't be important for a build with a discrete graphics card, right (although then I'd wonder why it was in the last build)? Also, the main difference between i5 and i7 is the hyperthreading that gets two threads going per core, right? Am I correct in thinking that that doesn't make much difference if I'm not running a million programs at once, and therefore that I don't really need an i7? Basically, I don't really know the reasoning behind the choice of the original processor, so I'm not sure choosing the nearest equivalent ivy bridge version is correct.
Yes, the major difference between the i5-2500K and the i7-2600K is hyperthreading, which may actually be a detriment to gaming. An extra $100 for 3% faster clock speed, two extra MB of L3 cache and the previously mentioned hyperthreading doesn't have as much bang for the buck than sticking that $100 toward a better video card or nowadays even a 120MB SSD.

Quote:
I believe I'm supposed to be looking for Z77 chipset/socket LGA 1155 motherboards for ivy bridge. The old motherboard was an ASRock Z68 Extreme4 LGA 1155 board for about 180$. This seems to be the nearest equivalent Z77 motherboard - even somewhat cheaper. Again, though, I don't know what the reasoning for the original choice was, so I'm not sure if simply looking for the nearest equivalent is the right thing to do.
Actually this is closer to the ASRock Z68 on my parts list in terms of features and bundled goodies (like the USB 3.0 adapter).

There's been some reviews on Z77 chipset based motherboards. The Z77 gives you access to more "knobs" for overclocking and native USB 3.0 support. Even though there's been a few reviews of Z77 motherboards at the usual trusted review sites, they've all used a Sandy Bridge or an Ivy Bridge engineering sample for the review. Now that Ivy Bridge is available, I suspect we'll see more reviews soon but paired with actual production Ivy Bridge CPUs.

EDIT: Speak of the devil.

Quote:
As for graphics, I was thinking of simply sticking with the EVGA GTX 560 that's in the old list. Is this still a good card? I notice it says it's a 'PCI express 2.0' card, while the motherboard lists 'PCI express 3.0' slots; will it actually work in that motherboard?
Yes not a problem. PCIe slots and cards can be mixed and matched between versions.

Quote:
Will the cooler master 212 CPU cooler work with the new processor? I see that it says it works with the intel 1155 sockets; does that mean that it'll still fit the new processor? Also, a review for that particular motherboard mentioned that a similar cooler blocked the first memory slot and that they had to put their ram into slots 2 and 4 - they said it worked, but that seems like a really weird thing to me; I thought the first slot always had to be filled. Could this be a problem?
Yes it will work. Ivy Bridge is also Socket 1155 just like the Sandy Bridge. As for blocking ram slots, insert the ram first and don't choose ram with exceptionally tall heat sinks. Yes ASRock ram slots are a little closer to the CPU socket than an Asus motherboard.

Quote:
Finally, the case. I assume that the cooler master 690 case in the old list is a perfectly good case. Unfortunately, as near as I can tell, it doesn't seem to include any provision for locking the case shut (at least it doesn't look like it in the pictures). Given what happened to my last machine, I fully plan to lock this one shut and then bike lock the case itself to some holes drilled through the side of my heavy wooden desk (won't stop a persistent enough burglar, but ought to defeat the sort of smash and grab jerk who took the last one). I need an appropriate case, though, and it doesn't seem that case manufacturers think that locking provisions are important enough to note in their descriptions. I suppose I can drill holes in the thing for that purpose if I have to, but it seems simpler to just get one that already has a place to put a lock. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to go about finding such a case, or whether it'd just be simpler to just get this one and drill some holes (I can do that, especially since I'm guessing I'll have to drill holes for the bike cable anyway)?
It comes with an optional case loop bracket that attaches to the inside rear of the case, sticks out through a slot in the rear panel of the case and goes through a slot in the side panel where you can run a steel cable with lock through it. Still won't stop someone with tin snips or a bolt cutter but it's better than nothing.

Quote:
Apart from all that, is there anything else on that list of parts that's out of date and should be updated? I'd rather not spend extra money, but if better stuff's now available for equivalent prices I'm all ears.

Thanks in advance!
As for cases, I'm looking for something as inexpensive as the CM 690 II but with native USB 3.0 front ports, which would eliminate the need for the adapter that comes with the MB on my current parts list. I suspect the CM 690 III is coming soon.

Right now SSDs are "big". I'm still a fan of the concept of using a small one as a drive cache (Intel's SRT) and avoid the hard decisions when it comes what to put on it rather than your main hard drive. But I'm in the minority. Plus reasonably good 120GB drives have come down in price.

I currently have a 850 watt power supply on my parts list. It is much larger than the needs of a single 560Ti and a non overclocked i5-2500K. I chose it over a smaller PSU because I didn't want an enthusiast who wanted to OC the CPU and add a second video card to also need to upgrade the PSU. If you are looking to save a little money, a 650 watt PSU is more than enough.


Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components

Tempus unum hominem manet

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muon_Neutrino View Post
The processor on the old list is an i5-2500k, which goes for 220$ at the moment. Of the 7 ivy bridge processors available at newegg, the i5-3550 seems to be the closest equivalent, as far as I can tell. What I'm wondering, though, is what's the significance of the letters after the number?
Head over here to see the differences between the various Ivy Bridge processors.

The closest equivalent to the 2500K is the 3570K.

Ivy Bridge prefixes:
37## = i7-type core.
35## = i5-type core.
K = Enthusiast class processor. The processor multiplier is unlocked to allow finer-control in overclocking. You can overclock non-K class processors. But that involves overclocking the system bus, which overclocks ALL the components on the bus. Unlocking the multiplier allows JUST the CPU to be overclocks, and at a finer-grained rate than just kicking up the bus clock.

Quote:
I *think* it has something to do with integrated graphics; correct me if I'm wrong, but that shouldn't be important for a build with a discrete graphics card, right (although then I'd wonder why it was in the last build)?
No, it's what I described above. ALL of these CPUs have a built-in graphics accelerator in them. It's not a gaming class GPU. But, for most desktop-related functions, they're fine.

Quote:
Also, the main difference between i5 and i7 is the hyperthreading that gets two threads going per core, right?
More or less correct.

Quote:
Am I correct in thinking that that doesn't make much difference if I'm not running a million programs at once, and therefore that I don't really need an i7?
It depends. Some apps are heavily multithreaded and can benefit from the i7 architecture. Most games won't really see a massive difference. If you're doing encryption cracking, the i7 will be better (but a GeForce/Radeon GPU client will suck the doors off the i7). File compression via ZIP/etc will benefit. Video processing/encoding runs faster on an i7.

Quote:
Basically, I don't really know the reasoning behind the choice of the original processor, so I'm not sure choosing the nearest equivalent ivy bridge version is correct.
The i5 2500K was the better bang for the buck because the i7 2600K didn't really add any performance for the extra $100 to your gaming. At the same time, being a K-class processor, you have the OPTION of some light overclocking so you CAN add extra performance. And the price differential between the standard 2500 and the 2500K is a whopping $20. Just don't go to the movies one time and you're good.

The same is true of the i5 3570K and the i7 3770K. You have a $100 difference (where the i5 is cheaper). And for gaming purposes, the i7 doesn't give you any performance boost over the i5.

What's the difference between the 2### series and the 3### series?
The 3### series has undergone a "die shrink". Basically they're using a new lithography process to render what is "essentially" the same chip in a smaller size.

Meaning they can crank out more chips per wafer, and the newer chips actually require less energy.

Moreover, there have been some subtle refinements to the architecture as well, resulting in better IPC (Instructions Per Clock). This means that, ostensibly, the newer processors can accomplish more per given "tick" of the CPU clock. Meaning they could possibly complete extensive, long-running operations faster.

There's a SMALL downside to the new architecture. It runs a little hotter, even though it uses less power. The reason is, the die (chip) size is smaller. Therefore there's less surface area over which to transfer heat to the heat dissipation devices.

Quote:
I believe I'm supposed to be looking for Z77 chipset/socket LGA 1155 motherboards for ivy bridge. The old motherboard was an ASRock Z68 Extreme4 LGA 1155 board for about 180$. This seems to be the nearest equivalent Z77 motherboard - even somewhat cheaper. Again, though, I don't know what the reasoning for the original choice was, so I'm not sure if simply looking for the nearest equivalent is the right thing to do.
Note: Not a fan of ASRock. Their boards can be VERY hit-or-miss. I have a general preference for Asus (of which ASRock used to be part of). Moreover, ASRock's motherboard documentation needs lots and LOTS of work. It's simply terrible right now.

Quote:
As for graphics, I was thinking of simply sticking with the EVGA GTX 560 that's in the old list. Is this still a good card? I notice it says it's a 'PCI express 2.0' card, while the motherboard lists 'PCI express 3.0' slots; will it actually work in that motherboard?
Yes. It's electrically compatible with older 2.0 cards. You simply won't see the full 3.0 data rate out of it.

If you're going to drop $250 on a card, I might suggest spending the extra $30 and going for the GTX 560 Ti 448-core (essentially a 570 with a couple cores that didn't meet spec turned off). The performance improvement is enough to justify the $30 price bump.



Quote:
Will the cooler master 212 CPU cooler work with the new processor? I see that it says it works with the intel 1155 sockets; does that mean that it'll still fit the new processor?
Yep. Socket 1155 is Socket 1155. While Intel put out Socket 2011 and quad-channel RAM for "enthusiasts", it chose to keep the 1155 as their main socket interface for now. Sensible, since Ivy Bridge is just a shrunken Sandy Bridge. No money investing in extra infrastructure to support another new socket type.

Quote:
Also, a review for that particular motherboard mentioned that a similar cooler blocked the first memory slot and that they had to put their ram into slots 2 and 4 - they said it worked, but that seems like a really weird thing to me; I thought the first slot always had to be filled. Could this be a problem?
Depends on the board. Some will DEMAND that Slot 1 MUST be filled and refuse to boot otherwise.

The ASRock X79Extreme9 does.

Others are more flexible.

Quote:
Finally, the case. I assume that the cooler master 690 case in the old list is a perfectly good case. Unfortunately, as near as I can tell, it doesn't seem to include any provision for locking the case shut (at least it doesn't look like it in the pictures). Given what happened to my last machine, I fully plan to lock this one shut and then bike lock the case itself to some holes drilled through the side of my heavy wooden desk (won't stop a persistent enough burglar, but ought to defeat the sort of smash and grab jerk who took the last one).
Memphis gave you a pic of the 690. I have the identical case. And yeah. there's a loop you use for a cable lock. Once placed, you can't get the side panel open without removing the cable lock first.

If you are going to "chain" the computer to the desk anyhoo, an extra lock doesn't accomplish anything more.

And if some schmuck steals it ANYHOW, a barrel lock will only slow them down. They HAVE the computer. If they just wanted a computer for themselves, they have it. If they want to strip the system out, all they need is a pen to pop a barrel lock.

***Edit***
Hmm. Looking at the CM690 II that's out. It's sans-loop now. Not cool.

If you're not looking to watercool or using 2.5" SSDs, I'd recommend taking a look at the Lian Li PC-9F.

Cooler Master Elite 334

Cooler Master Storm Sniper

I can look for more later if you want. But it's now 2 in the morning and I need to faceplant BAD.



Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperstrike View Post
***Edit***
Hmm. Looking at the CM690 II that's out. It's sans-loop now. Not cool.
Are you looking at the manufacturer's pics or one of the actual cases? Since the manufacturer pics of the CM690 don't show the loop. (I was looking before, and I doubt they have some with loops and some that are loopless)

Also, I've got another case (the ultra or something, cheap case) that has provision for it but doesn't have it installed - I don't remember right now if it was loose in the box or not. Some of the locks I see replace case screws, too (or have some other way in.)

http://www.tryten.com/categories/Sec...er-Case-Locks/ - a few varieties.
http://www.directron.com/1320380.html - replaces case screw. Doesn't tie to desk, though.

So don't worry too much about the case ITSELF not having a lock.

(I looked because of fairly big periods away on occasion, and the house isn't really zombie apocalypse proof.)


Wanted: Origin centric story arcs.
If you've only played an AT once (one set combo) and "hate" it - don't give up. Roll a different combo. It may just be those sets not clicking for you.

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stormbird View Post
Are you looking at the manufacturer's pics or one of the actual cases? Since the manufacturer pics of the CM690 don't show the loop. (I was looking before, and I doubt they have some with loops and some that are loopless)
I'm looking at the pics of the case on Newegg.
The new powdercoated chassis shown in those pictures is loop-free.



Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.

 

Posted

If you are looking at the CM 690 II Advance at NewEgg, the loop can be found in the last picture that displays the case, shipping box and all the miscellaneous screws and accessories. The angle isn't all that good, it's above the case/mb speaker, looks like a black rectangle with only a bit of the curve loop visible.

You can see a better picture of it in this review of the case (2nd picture, right hand side, bellow the two rubber fan mounts). The manual lists both the loop and the screw for it in the parts list but fails to show you where and how to install it (probably because all the diagrams already has it installed), but it's pretty obvious if you look closely at the case.


Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components

Tempus unum hominem manet

 

Posted

Ah so.



Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.

 

Posted

another option would be a seperate security cage something like this.

Basically is fixes to the desk, wall, whatever and your PC is locked into it.


Mind of Gaia lvl 50 Defiant's first Mind/Storm 'troller.
Deadly Doc 50 Dark/Dark Corr
and lots more on Pinnacle,Union and Defiant

 

Posted

So, here's what I'm looking at right now.

Cooler master CM690 II case (Suddenly out of stock, but I don't imagine that will last long. I wasn't going to order until next week anyway.)
CORSAIR Professional series 650W power supply
ASRock Z77 Extreme6 LGA 1155 motherboard
Intel Core i5-3570K processor
Cooler master Hyper 212 cpu cooler
G.SKILL Ares 8GB ram (went for some with no protruding heat sinks)
EVGA GTX 569 Ti video card
Seagate Barracuda 1TB hard drive

Is there anything wrong with this, as far as anyone can tell?

I still need to decide on a monitor, keyboard, and maybe headset (already have mouse, speakers, and copy of windows 7). Monitor I'm just looking for a decent, fairly big (20"+) lcd. Last time I had this monitor, which seemed to be pretty nice. I was thinking of just getting the same one again for simplicity, unless anyone has any better suggestions. I specifically *don't* cate about 3d or any of that.

Keyboard, when the rig was stolen I had *just* gotten a microsoft sidewinder x4 to replace the cheap generic I had destroyed with a glass of pop. I originally chose it for the anti-ghosting, since the generic had the annoying habit of not recognizing the 3rd keypress if I tried to hold down (for example) shift, s, and a (which got me killed on occasion in games like counter-strike since it's useful to be able to walk on the diagonal while sneaking). I was also hoping, though, that the macro keys would help alleviate some of the power overload I run into on high level characters here in CoH by mapping them to something like control+(1-5), but in the few days I had to play with it I found them a bit far from wasd to actually comfortably hit in combat. It's still a good anti-ghosting keyboard for about the right price, the extra features (while not quite as good as I had been hoping) are still useful, and I'd definitely buy it again if nothing better comes along. I'm curious, though, if anyone has any experience with any other gaming keyboards that they particularly like (especially ones with anti-ghosting or easy to hit macro keys).

Finally, headset/microphone. I'm not looking for anything fancy, just a decent, reasonably cheap headset with microphone that won't fall apart after a couple months. I had in the past a cheap radio shack headset which was nice and comfortable, but the mic died. Does anyone know what the *good* brands are in terms of reliability/comfort/etc?


@MuonNeutrino
Student, Gamer, Altaholic, and future Astronomer.

This is what it means to be a tank!

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Muon_Neutrino View Post
So, here's what I'm looking at right now.

Cooler master CM690 II case (Suddenly out of stock, but I don't imagine that will last long. I wasn't going to order until next week anyway.)
CORSAIR Professional series 650W power supply
ASRock Z77 Extreme6 LGA 1155 motherboard
Intel Core i5-3570K processor
Cooler master Hyper 212 cpu cooler
G.SKILL Ares 8GB ram (went for some with no protruding heat sinks)
EVGA GTX 569 Ti video card
Seagate Barracuda 1TB hard drive

Is there anything wrong with this, as far as anyone can tell?

I still need to decide on a monitor, keyboard, and maybe headset (already have mouse, speakers, and copy of windows 7). Monitor I'm just looking for a decent, fairly big (20"+) lcd. Last time I had this monitor, which seemed to be pretty nice. I was thinking of just getting the same one again for simplicity, unless anyone has any better suggestions. I specifically *don't* cate about 3d or any of that.

Keyboard, when the rig was stolen I had *just* gotten a microsoft sidewinder x4 to replace the cheap generic I had destroyed with a glass of pop. I originally chose it for the anti-ghosting, since the generic had the annoying habit of not recognizing the 3rd keypress if I tried to hold down (for example) shift, s, and a (which got me killed on occasion in games like counter-strike since it's useful to be able to walk on the diagonal while sneaking). I was also hoping, though, that the macro keys would help alleviate some of the power overload I run into on high level characters here in CoH by mapping them to something like control+(1-5), but in the few days I had to play with it I found them a bit far from wasd to actually comfortably hit in combat. It's still a good anti-ghosting keyboard for about the right price, the extra features (while not quite as good as I had been hoping) are still useful, and I'd definitely buy it again if nothing better comes along. I'm curious, though, if anyone has any experience with any other gaming keyboards that they particularly like (especially ones with anti-ghosting or easy to hit macro keys).

Finally, headset/microphone. I'm not looking for anything fancy, just a decent, reasonably cheap headset with microphone that won't fall apart after a couple months. I had in the past a cheap radio shack headset which was nice and comfortable, but the mic died. Does anyone know what the *good* brands are in terms of reliability/comfort/etc?

On the monitor. Maybe take a look at this one from Asus.
For a keyboard, I recommend the Logitech G510. The programmable G-keys are a godsend, as is the ability to script out your keyboard any frickin' way you want.
Moreover, you can plug your headset directly into the keyboard.

Speaking of headset. Here's the headset I use.



Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.