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I'm also in the boonies and on dial-up.
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There's also the HD 4550. Really it's just an HD 4350 with faster (much faster with GDDR3) memory. This does make a noticeable difference in performance.
On the nVidia side there is the GT 220 which nVidia says only needs a 300 watt PSU to run. However it does pull a lot more watts than the HD 4550 so knowing 300 watt PSUs in prebuilt PCs, I would say that it's an iffy proposition. However it does have around twice the performance of the HD 4550.
While I love NewEgg, characteristics like low profile isn't always marked making filtering the extremely large list of under $75 video cards a visual search. Also make sure that the card you choose does come with the low profile bracket(s), not all do. -
1) Well Gigabyte MBs are known to be a great MB for the money.
2) The UD4P happens to be the least expensive P55 MB that supports SLi and CrossfireX.
3) A number of hardware review sites "what to buy" lists include the UD4P as part of their i5-750/i7-860 builds.
Combine all three with the holiday season and POOF, supply shortages. -
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Another problem with the original BTX design was the layout didn't favor AMD processors with their integrated memory controller, BTX being designed to help the Pentium IV heat problems.
Anywho do you want to see a case that takes compartmentalizing components with their own cooling to the extreme?
Meet the Thermaltake Level 10 case, designed in conjunction with BMW DesignWorks. Only $850 at NewEgg, well not really, it's only available as part of a $4700 list (save over $500) of top end parts.
There's a review of it over at PC Perspective. Every component group has it's own enclosure. The motherboard enclosure (with removable motherboard tray) includes a 140mm front and 120mm rear fan and a side vent. Each hard drive has it's own little case but the column of HD bays are cooled by two 60mm fans. All the cables are run within the common "wall" that all the individual enclosures are attached to.
At least it comes with a handle if you want to haul it somewhere. It's made out of aluminum but still weighs close to 50 lbs empty. -
Well your question was "Someone translate this for me", I did. In any case it's barely readable.
Why don't you start a new thread and post a CoH Helper and a Hijack This report for others to take a look at. These stickies are for answers not for individual problem solving. -
Well I have the manual right here (downloaded the pdf when I first switched to this case for the $1200 build wishlist).
Top Fan x 2 - Supports 80/90/120/140mm fans (optional)
Rear Fan x 1 - Supports 80/90/120mm fans (120mm fan installed)
Front Fan x 1 - Supports 80/90/120mm fans (120 mm fan installed)
Bottom Fan x 1 - Supports 120/140mm fans (optional)
Left Fan x 2 - Supports 80/90/120/140mm fans (one 120mm fan installed, one optional)
Right Fan x 1 - Supports 80x15mm fan (optional)
Note that most case fans are 25mm (1 inch) thick so the behind the motherboard (right fan) is thinner than standard (15mm thick). You can see in this picture of the rear fan and this picture of the left side fans the mounting holes for all the different fan sizes.
BTW the front fan and the bottom fan location already have fine mesh filters.
And yes the top is a grill as well. It's plastic hiding the metal top of the case.
Oh and those pics are from a review of the case at TechPowerUp. Lots of pictures including all the fan locations, the bottom fan filter and the PSU vent.
And my favorite exchange from the movie.
"What is the use of wizardry if it cannot save a unicorn?"
"That is what heroes are for." -
It's a DxDiag in HTML. It's created as part of a crash report so if submitted they have an idea what your hardware, OS and drivers are installed on your system.
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The behind the motherboard low profile 80mm intake fan is basically pointless except for the few motherboards that have a heatsink mounted under the CPU socket. The epoxy/fiberglass material that circuit boards are made of aren't really great conductors of heat so blowing air on it isn't really going to dissipate a lot of heat.
The 2nd side fan mount is located above the video card toward the rear of the case next to the rear exhaust fan. I personally would look at blocking this opening to ensure the exhaust fan is blowing warm air out of the case and not simply sucking it in through the side vent.
The side fan is located either above or just below the video card slots. This combined with the air from the front fan should provide the video card with a nice supply of cooler outside air to use which is why I don't think you need a bottom fan.
As for the two top fan mounts, I'm of two thoughts about this. Either add an intake fan to the front mount, supplying cool air to the CPU cooler and ram or an exhaust fan at the rear mount to assist in removing the hot air from the CPU cooler and voltage regulator heatsinks from the case.
I was going to include pictures of the airflow with little arrows but I don't feel like playing with GIMP right now. However let me include these two pictures so you get a sense where the side fans line up relative to the guts of the case. Tab between them to see get an idea where they link up.
Outside Inside
However experimenting to find the best mix of open vent, closed vent, intake fan and exhaust fan on the optional fan locations for the best temperature distribution is half the fun. -
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That's right but in a bind or macro you don't use the /
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Let me point out here that the Cooler Master RC-690 has a ton of optional mounting locations for fans that could be acting as intake vents into the case (two top, one bottom, a second on the left side and one low profile one on the right side behind the CPU). The PSU has its own vent on the bottom of the case and all of the drive bay covers are meshed. You can't say that this case isn't well ventilated.
You may want to block off some of the unused ones or consider placing filters in front of them as well considering your dog/cat hair situation no to mention dust bunnies. And you only really need filters on the front and side intake fans. -
Power they use. A range attack is still a range attack at point blank range.
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Well if PvP is your thing then you probably won't like this game.
It was added to the game after launch, rebalanced several times to apparently nobody's liking. Also powers act very differently in PvP than PvE including Mez duration and damage done.
If you want to read up on types of PvP then here's the page from our wiki.
ParagonWiki: Player Vs Player -
My "local" matinee is $6-7.25 depending on which direction I drive 20 miles in.
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Notice that HiJack This shows that CoH is currently running, which explains a bit about his memory usage CoHHelper is showing us.
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Well if you are in a small SG or red side I can understand why the OP doesn't think the travel ability of bases are all that great. With Pocket D, Ouroboros, Vangard and Midnighter's Club (blue side) the main zones are pretty well covered.
Also if the OP may not have been here when the trams blue side didn't hit FF or Skyway or you had lots of missions in the various hazard zones that are only accessible if you traveled there on "foot" making a base TP a godsend.
Of course the other big bonus from bases are the crafting of enhancements or empowerment buffs and time travel access, again found more often in large SG bases.
So I can understand that if he's never seen what a fully functioning base can provide that he may underestimate it's worth. -
1) That's good, waiting that is. Also allows you to stash away some more money for the new rig.
2) Not waiting forever is also a good thing. At some point you have to stop listening to talk of price cuts or the hype of what's coming in "only" another couple of months or you'll never upgrade.
3) True, the HD 5770 is 10-15% slower than a GTX 260/216. Actually ATI is bracketing nVidia's offerings with their HD 5xxx series of cards. The HD 57xx series is faster than the GTS 250 yet slow than the GTX 260/216 and the HD 58xx series is faster than the GTX 285 leaving nVidia holding the ground between with their GTX 2xx series of cards, which people have mentioned are becoming harder and harder to get. nVidia may have the cards designed around the new G300 GPU out by February but they will be priced for enthusiasts with nothing in the $200 range.
4) FrostyTech is a good site to find lots of CPU cooler reviews. So are X-bit Labs and bit-tech.net.
5) Well you did mention you were trying to keep the price in check. It's really easy to rationalize to spend just a little more for that bigger drive or faster memory or faster video card and before you know it the price is now way above what you were willing to spend. -
Back in the boot Spridle.
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Not a bad list of parts. The big problem is the holiday shopping season is tapping out a lot of inventory.
As for the cooler yes the Freezer 7 Pro is not the ultimate air cooler out there but it's still very good. The Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus is somewhat better and cheaper but is currently out of stock at NewEgg. Actually a lot of Socket 1156 coolers and adapters are out of stock at NewEgg.
You could save a little money, $20-30 by looking at a smaller hard drive for now like the Seagate or Samsung 750GB drive. But again it seems there is a run on smaller WD Caviar Black drives as they are also, surprise, out of stock. Then again WD may be planning on introducing ones using the 500GB platters and the new dual action head actuator the 2TB Caviar Black is using. Face it, the hard drive is the easiest part of the system to add to later on.
If you don't care about SLi and true CrossfireX, Firewire (IEEE-1394) and Dolby Theater sound you can save $30 with the Gigabyte GA-P55-UD3R. You also lose dual LAN (why does any normal person need dual Gb LAN is beyond me) and finer over voltage control.
As for graphics there is always the HD 5770/HD 4870/HD 4890 in the same price and performance range of the GTX 260. -
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That's because that feature doesn't work. You need to host it somewhere and use IMG tags in your sig.