Graphics card upgrade
First thing to ask is "are you sure a discreet graphics card will fit?"
I haven't been up on the pre-built, brand name, computers for a while... But I think they have gotten better about that.
If the answer is yes, the next question is "do you have a brand preference?" (AMD/ATI, or nVidia)
If not, then a Radeon HD 6870 or GTX 560 would be a good starting point. (Links used as examples, not true suggestions.)
Depending on your budget, we can narrow in on the best card for you.
First thing to ask is "are you sure a discreet graphics card will fit?"
I haven't been up on the pre-built, brand name, computers for a while... But I think they have gotten better about that. If the answer is yes, the next question is "do you have a brand preference?" (AMD/ATI, or nVidia) Depending on your budget, we can narrow in on the best card for you. |
Those two links show cards in the 175-180 range, which seems about in my budget. I could maybe go 250.00 if the extra 60 bucks is a giant increase in quality and not a mere slide up. Or if that 60 bucks represents whether or not the thing will run next years bells and whistles.
Does this look like your system? (PDF link)
You say you aren't a hardware person, but any information you can provide can help. Can you link to the system? Maybe provide a model number at least?
I don't want to bother you with questions you might not be able to answer, but power supply capacity and expansion slots can be helpful. (Modern video cards can suck up a lot of power, and if you have to upgrade that it will affect your budget.)
I can't find any power supply information easily, so if you can't provide that then someone with more knowledge of your computer might have to answer.
I *think *(I'm at work) that looks exactly like my system. Bought the whole package at WallyMarticus for $700.00. I know you geeks could build 3 times the machine for half the price, but I takes what I can talk the wife into. (this is quite a step up from the middle of the road Dell that was 6 years old...)
i am pretty happy with it. I will be ecstatic with it if I can get a card onto it that will run Ultra and do so well for a couple years.
I know squat about comps, though I am decent with certain programs. One of the reasons my wife chose this model is a tech head at her work told her it was expandable, whereas the other model we were looking at was all integrated. So lets hope so heh, or I will be playing on this beast for quite some time the way it is. No brand preference at all, just want something that will reliably run CoH in Ultra. I like I Trials, etc, for the treasure. That of course means heavy graphics.
Those two links show cards in the 175-180 range, which seems about in my budget. I could maybe go 250.00 if the extra 60 bucks is a giant increase in quality and not a mere slide up. Or if that 60 bucks represents whether or not the thing will run next years bells and whistles. |
If your budget is $250, I'd recommend a GTX 560 Ti instead. The performance bump is fairly small, but the card is eligible for the EVGA StepUp program for the first 90 days.
So, if around Christmastime, nVidia drops something newer and more powerful, and you want to move to the more powerful card (or you get it into your head to drop in a GTX 580), you can. You simply pay the difference in price between the two cards.
The card is $250 up front with a $20 Mail-In Rebate.
You want to look on your power supply FIRST before buying though. You're going to need 2 six-pin PCI-E connectors.

Thx to everyone helping me muddle through this. I just spent half hour on the HP website. How can you refine a 1,100 results search and get 80.000+ results? Argh...
Anyways, (again, at work) I think this is the thing I got, though less sure than the link posted above (which I'm like 99.9% sure is my PC)
But I found this on HP, and if so it says 250W.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...en&lc=en#N1106
Thx to everyone helping me muddle through this. I just spent half hour on the HP website. How can you refine a 1,100 results search and get 80.000+ results? Argh...
Anyways, (again, at work) I think this is the thing I got, though less sure than the link posted above (which I'm like 99.9% sure is my PC) But I found this on HP, and if so it says 250W. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/d...en&lc=en#N1106 |
Pop the side of the case and see if there's any info on the PSU itself.
Also, if you go to the "Help Me!" link in my sig, and can get me a CoH Helper dump, that might give us the info we need to find out about what kind of PSU your system's rocking.
As I said in one of your many threads Blue, my recommended upgrade path is an Antec EA-430D coupled with a GTX 550Ti. I'm assuming you are on a budget.
The Antec if physically the same size as the PSU that comes in HP Pavilions plus it provides a lot of 12 volt power (384 watts), which is what both the CPU and a real video card.
The GTX 550Ti is listed as using 116 watts.
The GTX 560 is listed as using 150 watts.
The GTX 560Ti is listed as using 170 watts.
The AMD Athlon II X4 650 is listed as using up to 95 watts.
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$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
Thx Father Xmas (and everyone). Looks like my budget for this is around $300.00 for the power upgrade and card.
My last question is should I take it down to a comp tech I know, or try to do it myself? I have never worked on comps much. To give you an idea of my technical level I recently had to put a new battery on my KORG A1 effects processor. I got it out of the rack, cracked the box, found the battery. Played around with it for about 1/2 hour (desperately trying to figure it out and not apply to much force and break it). I gave up, took it to my friend who is an electrical engineer (and always busy). He asks me 1) is it here (yes) 2) is it already open? (yes!) He walk over to it, touches the battery with his finger, pops it out, puts the new one in. I know a local comp tech I trust, but he has a 'real business'. Prob charge me $50.00 or so to do this.
If you have absolutely no confidence in your ability to do this then I would take it to the tech so long as he only charges you around $50. It's really easy to swap a power supply and even easier to swap a video card... provided you know what you are doing or can figure it out. But if you do it wrong then you could wind up with various plugs not going to where they need to be and maybe a broken clip or two.
Don't count your weasels before they pop dink!
Thx Father Xmas (and everyone). Looks like my budget for this is around $300.00 for the power upgrade and card.
My last question is should I take it down to a comp tech I know, or try to do it myself? I have never worked on comps much. To give you an idea of my technical level I recently had to put a new battery on my KORG A1 effects processor. I got it out of the rack, cracked the box, found the battery. Played around with it for about 1/2 hour (desperately trying to figure it out and not apply to much force and break it). I gave up, took it to my friend who is an electrical engineer (and always busy). He asks me 1) is it here (yes) 2) is it already open? (yes!) He walk over to it, touches the battery with his finger, pops it out, puts the new one in. I know a local comp tech I trust, but he has a 'real business'. Prob charge me $50.00 or so to do this. |
The big one will be the 24-pin (or 20+4) main power.
On the board, the connector will be like this (the beige/white one up front to the right).

The plug on the power supply will be the largest of them all. It'll either be a straight 24-pin plug or a 20+4 configuration (so it's compatible with older motherboards). Also, if you look closely at the connector you'll see a ridged flange on the front.
If you look at the actual power connector below you'll see the clip. That gives you an indicator about the orientation of the plug (the clip side goes towards the flange-side of the connector so it locks into place). Also, you cannot plug it in backwards. The connector is keyed (as you can see). Forcing it will only break things.

Also, you want to look for the 12 volt connector on the board.
It'll usually be a 4 or 8 pin affair (in the pic below it's light blue and has a black cap on 4 of the pins).

The connectors will usually be two 4 pin connectors. If you have only a 4 pin connector on the motherboard, you can usually plug either one of the 4-pin 12V connectors into the motherboard. Note: For some reason this is always put in and around the upper left-hand corner of the motherboard. This is usually a bit cramped and requires some good manual dexterity (or small hands) or mechanical assistance to get it unplugged or re-connected.

Also you want to pay attention to the power connectors for hard drives as well.
Older hard drives and opticals (CD/DVD/Blu-Ray) use a molex power connector.


Newer SATA drives use SATA connectors.


Essentially, all you need to do is make sure you have everything connected again when you power on.
The PCI-E connector is fairly straightforward.
On your motherboard you're going to be looking for a PCI-E Express 16x connector.

You'll notice it has a little "hooking" mechanism on the front.
That's a card retention mechanism. Some of the cards nowadays are quite heavy and the hook mechanism prevents the card from working its way free.
On the card itself you'll see the connector and the actual hook on the PCB (Printed Circuit Board). Simply push the card into place and make sure the tab for the hooking mechanism locks in place and you're golden.

Now a lot of the cards nowadays are "double-wide" (they require two expansion slots) in the back of the machine. So you will have to remove one of the covers on the extra expansion slots to get the card to fit properly.

Additionally, most newer cards in the midrange to high end require additonal 12v power connectors.
Most of the ones we've suggested will want one or 2 6-pin connectors.
Here's the usual location for GTX 560's.

And for a 550


Said connectors will either be on the top or the front of the card. The expansion-slot covers on the card are considered the "back" of the card.
So, the tools you need for this job.
1 - Phillips-head screwdriver (Magnetic tips make things much easier just don't leave them laying on components)

Note: Local hardware stores usually sell a reversible flat-head/phillips screwdriver set that's perfect for working on computers.
Maybe a pair of long-nose (also called needle-nose) pliers for helping grip and place things in areas that are tough to get your hands into.

Well, hope this was informative (and not too scary).
It actually takes longer to type this out and prep the images than it would to get everything done.
For $300 I would still go with the Antec EA-430D and pair it with a GTX 560.
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Now whatever video card you get, before you do any of this, go to either AMD or nVidia, depending on the GPU brand, and download the latest driver or in the case of AMD, the last driver that works with this game. Remember where you saved this so when your bring the system back up after the PSU swap and video card installation, you can run this.
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Well it uses the same case layout and motherboard as my parent's HP they got earlier this year.
My only concern for a novice is knocking loose one or more somewhat undocumented case cables to the motherboard. This is where a digital camera and a bright light can come in handy, photograph the motherboard and document what goes where before you start to yank things out. Digital cameras are a godsend.
This is the motherboard. There are only two cables you need to concern yourself with, the large 24 pin cable whose connector (2 by 12) you see midway on the lower edge and the 4 pin cable (2 by 2, two black and two yellow wires) whose connector is rotated 45 degrees and is located in the photo between the CPU socket and the connectors that stick out of the back of the computer. It's next to a silver heatsink.
The only other two power connectors are to the hard drive and the optical drive. I believe they both use the standard SATA power connector. I'm pretty sure that no 4-pin old style Molex power connectors are used (the optical drive's power may be via an adapter Molex to SATA power. Hyper's previous post shows what the connectors look like.
Also before rummaging around inside the case do the following, turn off the computer, unplug the power cable, turn the computer back on. This discharges any power that's built up in capacitors on the motherboard. Best not to have any power hanging around.
This is the service manual (PDF file) for that PC (assuming you got the p7-1003w, it fits your description). It will go over the steps on how to open your case (note, you just need to open the side, no need to remove the front), add a card and describe how to swap out the hard drive and optical drive. I know you swaping them but it will tell you about the power cables and show you where the drives are located in the case. What the manual won't tell you about is how to swap out the power supply.
Once you've shut down the computer, unplug the wall cable from the back of the computer, discharge any remaining power by trying to turn it on unplugged, take off the side and lay the case over onto it's side do the following.
Unplug the two power cables from the motherboard and carefully move them out of the way, making sure to not dislodge any other cables plugged into the motherboard. You may have to thread them through and between other cables until they are clear.
Then unplug the power cable from the hard drive and again carefully move it out of the way, making sure to not dislodge any other cable plugged into the motherboard. Again you may have to thread it through other cables.
As you move these cables out of the way, the only one that should be left is the one connecting to the optical drive. Unplug that now. This cable should be in the clear.
The power supply is held in by four screws. Simply unscrew them and you should be able to remove the power supply.
Now just do everything in reverse with the new power supply. Note that you are going to have a lot more and a lot longer cables with the new power supply than the old one. You may want to estimate how long of each cable you need and bundle up the excess before you try to install it. If not certainly do it after word, there isn't a lot of space in that case and you don't want the excess cables hanging around all over, it interrupts the air flow.
Now install you video card according to the manual. It uses the two, six pin PCIe power connectors coming from the new power supply. Plug these into the video card so it will work.
Now if everything was done right you can close up the case, plug it in and power up.
Was there anything I overlooked Dr. Hyperstrike?
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet

Nah, looks fairly complete.
I have a similar machine to the original poster and also want to upgrade. Can you get an antec that would perhaps support larger wattage lets say 800 watts in the same case?
Also, is there a card that could still fit into 1 slot that would have enough power for ultra mode? I thought AMD had come out with something recently.
As I said in one of your many threads Blue, my recommended upgrade path is an Antec EA-430D coupled with a GTX 550Ti. I'm assuming you are on a budget.
The Antec if physically the same size as the PSU that comes in HP Pavilions plus it provides a lot of 12 volt power (384 watts), which is what both the CPU and a real video card. The GTX 550Ti is listed as using 116 watts. The GTX 560 is listed as using 150 watts. The GTX 560Ti is listed as using 170 watts. The AMD Athlon II X4 650 is listed as using up to 95 watts. |
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I have a similar machine to the original poster and also want to upgrade. Can you get an antec that would perhaps support larger wattage lets say 800 watts in the same case?
Also, is there a card that could still fit into 1 slot that would have enough power for ultra mode? I thought AMD had come out with something recently. |
That said...
Galaxy makes a GTX 550 that only for $125. This will work if you only have one actual external expansion bay, but you still need to actually have the slot in the case next to the card open for the cooler though.
You can go up to a 6770 on the Radeon side of things with an actual single-slot solution for $140. I wouldn't try overclocking said card at all though.
All the cards I listed should be able to run ultra mode to some degree (at least minimum UM settings with the GTX 550Ti or HD 6770).
Why in Odin's name do you want to stick a 800 watt PSU into that tiny microATX case. Honestly, not a lot of room between the rear of a standard size, 140mm deep, ATX12V PSU and the optical drive once you include the tied up bundle of excess cables. Antec's EA-500 is also a standard size PSU.
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
Thx for the very good technical run downs folks. I will get the power suplly and card listed above nd either have my friend the engineer put it in (prob not, he a grump) or the guy I know that runs a comp business, or a very good friend who is 3 hours away who can build comps. But after all the above talk I'm not touching it myself. Now, if you need some math, accounting, research, decision making done, I'm your guy. Touching little fragile parts and not breaking things, no way. Even when I paint/draw its with big bold sweeping motions lol.
The 6770 (aka 5770 rebadged) can most certainly run ultra mode with the athlon II. It might be vulnerable to lag on trials and zone events but it should handle mid level UM just fine.
Edit: I would measure how much room you have for the Graphics card. I installed a 560Ti in my friend's HP and barely had a 1/2" an inch to spare. To think, I liked that card since it was short compared to the 6870 I had. :/
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got a question, I just upgraded from a gtx 280 to gtx 480. I am running at 1920x1200 on lcd monitor, would i get anything from adding a second lower card to run physix(sp),and if so what is a cheap one to use?(the 280 is not avail).
my cpu is a i7-960 if that matters so i should have enough cpu horsepower.
Thank you
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I want to upgrade the graphics card for my new comp. I want to get something reasonable, but that will also run the game in Ultra mode without any problems.
The rig is: HP Pavilion AMD Athlon 11 650 quad 8GB DDR3 w/ ATI Radeon 4200 and the monitor is HP 2311x
Any suggestions for a nice card to throw in?