Information Gathering for future Ultra-mode capable PC
I had this nicely written post made out yesterday with links and all, but the browser ated it...after an inner cry I closed the browser and decided to work on one tonite instead (remembering to copy/paste this time). So if you're reading this, check back in say...a couple hours. :-p
First I wanted to point out the updates at the top
then I came up with a few more questions.
Optical Drive Questions:
So I still have this favorite piece of hardware sitting in the to sell box, but Im kinda wondering if its actually worth wild to get a simple IDE/ATAPI-SATA microboard adaptor. The only reason I ask is because of the builtin 8Mb cache on the drive (versus the 2Mb cache on DVD drives) and the fact that the adaptors arent terribly expensive. Then again, a newer SATA DVD-RW drive with top specs goes for a smidge more than the adaptor. Beyond that, Im wondering if I should just simply go with a single BD-RE drive and leave it at that. In the past, one would want one optical drive dedicated for burning and another for reading because of possible laser overheating/damaging discs, etc, but Im betting somebodys gonna tell me thats no longer the case now too.
CPU Installation Questions:
Most of the installations Ive done have used thermal paste in a plunger type tube, but I have heard of thermal pads. Ive also read (when working on dads PC build a couple years ago) that certain types of CPUs have preferred methods/locations for the thermal paste depending on the on-die chip arrangement. What type is going to come with the CPU if any and should I bother looking for the pad style?
System Cooling:
Now depending on the model case I end up with, some will have more fans than others and different sizes and options for types/quantity of fans. Considering this build, should I buy extra fans? Whats a good configuration? What am I forgetting to ask?
Video Connectors, but no onboard video?
Ive noticed that most of the motherboards have multiple video connectors (D-SUB, DVI, HDMI, etc) builtin even though theres no onboard video controller. Is this a side effect of the CPUs builtin GPU or is there something else afoot? If Im wanting HDMI as a current primary connection, then do I need to focus on the PCI-E GPUs connections or the motherboards?
Wireless Internet:
For my current configuration atleast, Ill need some sort of wireless internet, preferably the 5Ghz band as I have a Dualband router in the Other room and nothing else is on that band. Ive seen some pretty neat looking motherboards with the cards builtin and even found that one PCI card. Which would be a better idea overall? Im thinking the addon card as itll give me more choices for motherboards.
If you cant tell, Im still struggling with the motherboard decision simply because theres too many choices. Some have more 3.0 USBs, some have more 6Gb/s SATA3s, but they all have a weird range of mixed PCI-E slots. Many of the slots are shared one way or another that would affect performance depending on whats plugged where. Some of these choices could affect the case decision based on header locations, etc. Maybe not, but never know.
Most of the installations Ive done have used thermal paste in a plunger type tube, but I have heard of thermal pads. Ive also read (when working on dads PC build a couple years ago) that certain types of CPUs have preferred methods/locations for the thermal paste depending on the on-die chip arrangement. What type is going to come with the CPU if any and should I bother looking for the pad style?
The pads are generic garbage that come with OEM installations. You should never ever CHOOSE to use one of them. If you buy a CPU bundled with the Intel cooler, the heatsink will have thermal paste on it already. I would scrape it off, clean the heatsink, and apply 'real' thermal paste. If you buy an aftermarket heatsink, it will be shipped clean. It may or may not come with separate thermal paste. I use Arctic Silver.
As for how to apply the paste based on the CPU type, there are plenty of guides online. All the main manufacturers of thermal paste have PDF guides on their sites.
Now depending on the model case I end up with, some will have more fans than others and different sizes and options for types/quantity of fans. Considering this build, should I buy extra fans? Whats a good configuration? What am I forgetting to ask?
You shouldn't need any extra fans. As for configuration, they'll all be installed the same way: front and/or side fans blowing IN, rear and/or top fans blowing OUT.
Ive noticed that most of the motherboards have multiple video connectors (D-SUB, DVI, HDMI, etc) builtin even though theres no onboard video controller. Is this a side effect of the CPUs builtin GPU or is there something else afoot? If Im wanting HDMI as a current primary connection, then do I need to focus on the PCI-E GPUs connections or the motherboards?
The video connectors on the motherboard are irrelevant since you will be using the connectors on a separate video card.
If you cant tell, Im still struggling with the motherboard decision simply because theres too many choices. Some have more 3.0 USBs, some have more 6Gb/s SATA3s, but they all have a weird range of mixed PCI-E slots. Many of the slots are shared one way or another that would affect performance depending on whats plugged where. Some of these choices could affect the case decision based on header locations, etc. Maybe not, but never know.
Any decent mobo should have more USB connectors than you'll need. I have 6 on the back of the case and two on the front. Two are USB 3, but I don't actually have any USB 3 devices.
As for the PCI-E slots, how many do you expect to use? I have a video card installed. That's it. My ethernet and audio are built in on the mobo. My video capture is external. If you're adding a wireless card, that won't need a high speed slot. Just make sure you have a 16x slot for the video card and that you won't be doing anything that downgrades it to a lower speed.
Same with SATA 3 - how many devices do you expect to have that will actually need it? I have one (my SSD).
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The Socket 1155 CPUs have an internal GPU which is a reason that (I'm assuming you have a Z68 or Z77 motherboard) has all those video connectors. The Ivy Bridge top end internal GPU, the Intel HD4000, is finally on par with a nVidia GT 520.
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Motherboard: TLR answer, go with Asus, Asrock or Gigabyte.
If you are not going SLI/Crossfire on Day 1, don't spend for extra PCI-E slots its a huge waste of money. Go with a Z68 or Z77 board for your K processor.
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The pads are generic garbage that come with OEM installations. I use Arctic Silver.
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As for how to apply the paste based on the CPU type, there are plenty of guides online. All the main manufacturers of thermal paste have PDF guides on their sites. |
I'll have to go ahead and look that up then for the CPUs listed so I'll have it in advance.
You shouldn't need any extra fans. As for configuration, they'll all be installed the same way: front and/or side fans blowing IN, rear and/or top fans blowing OUT. |
The video connectors on the motherboard are irrelevant since you will be using the connectors on a separate video card. |
Any decent mobo should have more USB connectors than you'll need. I have 6 on the back of the case and two on the front. Two are USB 3, but I don't actually have any USB 3 devices. |
As for the PCI-E slots, how many do you expect to use? I have a video card installed. That's it. My ethernet and audio are built in on the mobo. My video capture is external. If you're adding a wireless card, that won't need a high speed slot. Just make sure you have a 16x slot for the video card and that you won't be doing anything that downgrades it to a lower speed. |
Same with SATA 3 - how many devices do you expect to have that will actually need it? I have one (my SSD). |
KK, lots to throw into consideration, but that's what the team chatter has been about! ^.^
Optical Drive Questions:
So I still have this favorite piece of hardware sitting in the “to sell” box, but I’m kinda wondering if it’s actually worth wild to get a simple IDE/ATAPI-SATA microboard adaptor. The only reason I ask is because of the builtin 8Mb cache on the drive (versus the 2Mb cache on DVD drives) and the fact that the adaptors aren’t terribly expensive. Then again, a newer SATA DVD-RW drive with top specs goes for a smidge more than the adaptor. Beyond that, I’m wondering if I should just simply go with a single BD-RE drive and leave it at that. In the past, one would want one optical drive dedicated for burning and another for reading because of possible laser overheating/damaging discs, etc, but I’m betting somebody’s gonna tell me that’s no longer the case now too. |
If you have the money, get a Blu-Ray drive. Note that software that can play back and write to Blu-Ray might be an additional cost, unless open source has caught up on Blu-Ray.
Otherwise, I think the SATA bus speed and the drive read speed in general compensates for the smaller cache of your typical SATA DVD drive vs. your 8MB IDE drive. So at the very least, don't get an adapter.
If you have the money, get a Blu-Ray drive. Note that software that can play back and write to Blu-Ray might be an additional cost, unless open source has caught up on Blu-Ray.
Otherwise, I think the SATA bus speed and the drive read speed in general compensates for the smaller cache of your typical SATA DVD drive vs. your 8MB IDE drive. So at the very least, don't get an adapter. |
Ok, Motherboard decision, revision, looking for new opinion time. ;-)
ASUS P8Z77-V LK (looking at it again I'm wondering why I chose this model over the other ASUS)
ASRock Z77 Extreme6 (beyond it being another ASRock, I think I might have chosen this one for the variety/number of ports)
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H (I was truely impressed with the head disipation approach, liked the port options, and was really curious about that mSATA thing in the middle. I guess it does something in conjunction with your CPU?)
Does anybody know how many fan headers these have? It's really hard to find out unless someone's done a youtube review vid, but honestly I haven't looked there yet so...
EDIT: Fixed link
Unless you're going to be overclocking, or stressing the CPU in some other way, the stock cooler is fine. Intel's OEM HSF's (Original Equipment Manufacturer HeatSink & Fan) used to suck but they're a lot better now... i.e. "good enough".
Now, in my case, my CPU is running at 100% utilization on all cores 24/7. I've got a cooler from Zalman that's not much smaller than a brick. I have a Core i7 870. The default clock is 2.93 GHz but, if it's kept cool, it will overclock itself. It's 77F in this room and my CPU is running at 3.21 GHz because my HSF is more than sufficient to the task. Plus I have an Antec 900 case which has a 22cm (the size of a dinner plate) fan in the roof of the case. |
Beyond the obvious increase in numbers, what's the major advantage, performance wise, of overclocking? I also have the concern of overheat constantly in my mind because of my living environment. Seeing as how I'm not the payer of the heating/cooling bill, I have no control over it. As I write this my room's 86.9F with the ceiling fan on high and all the windows open. Ambient outside temp is 72F. IDK what the moisture levels are, but we're less than a few hundred yards from a lake. I've seen my room go as high as 92F with my laptop, PS3, Apple G4 and TV all running at the same time. Whenever I pay lots of stuff down and can afford to live on my own again, things will be WAY different, but that's what it'll be like for a while.
Most cases seem to have a rear fan of either 120mm or 140mm and some have HUGE top fan(s) as well. I think I might wanna look into one with twin top fans just to be safe, but all this still has me wondering if the OEM fan/heatsink are going to handle this environment.
Beyond the obvious increase in numbers, what's the major advantage, performance wise, of overclocking?
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If you're overclocking your GPU, anything relying on the GPU for graphics crunching runs faster.
I also have the concern of overheat constantly in my mind because of my living environment. Seeing as how I'm not the payer of the heating/cooling bill, I have no control over it. As I write this my room's 86.9F with the ceiling fan on high and all the windows open. Ambient outside temp is 72F. IDK what the moisture levels are, but we're less than a few hundred yards from a lake. I've seen my room go as high as 92F with my laptop, PS3, Apple G4 and TV all running at the same time. Whenever I pay lots of stuff down and can afford to live on my own again, things will be WAY different, but that's what it'll be like for a while. Most cases seem to have a rear fan of either 120mm or 140mm and some have HUGE top fan(s) as well. I think I might wanna look into one with twin top fans just to be safe, but all this still has me wondering if the OEM fan/heatsink are going to handle this environment. |
Ok, Motherboard decision, revision, looking for new opinion time. ;-)
ASUS P8Z77-V LK (looking at it again I'm wondering why I chose this model over the other ASUS) ASRock Z77 Extreme6 (beyond it being another ASRock, I think I might have chosen this one for the variety/number of ports) Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H (I was truely impressed with the head disipation approach, liked the port options, and was really curious about that mSATA thing in the middle. I guess it does something in conjunction with your CPU?) Does anybody know how many fan headers these have? It's really hard to find out unless someone's done a youtube review vid, but honestly I haven't looked there yet so... |
Not a big fan of ASRock. They can be VERY hit-or-miss.
Their motherboard documentation needs a LOT of work too.
If you have the cash, get a Blu-Ray combo drive. It simply gives you another option.
I wouldn't worry about two optical burners. Unless you're *already* heavily using your opticals for major burn-fests on a regular basis. I have two opticals in mine. A Plextor DVD burner (LOVE Plextor, they're expensive, but they're some of the best opticals I've ever owned), and a Samsung Blu-Ray combo drive.
Frankly I haven't burned a disk on them in more than a year now...
Gigabyte GA-Z77X-UD5H (I was truely impressed with the head disipation approach, liked the port options, and was really curious about that mSATA thing in the middle. I guess it does something in conjunction with your CPU?) |
The Asus board you got came with an on-board video solution. If you're going discrete vidcard, I wouldn't spend for it. Just get a regular board. One less components to cause problems.
Not a big fan of ASRock. They can be VERY hit-or-miss. Their motherboard documentation needs a LOT of work too. |
Honestly, if you're in a room that's nearly 90 degrees with the fan going, you really are going to need to be careful then. Any cooling solution relying on ambient air temps (pretty much everything except peltier-based systems) will not cool as efficiently.
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For a reference, my laptop is connected to one of those lapdesk coolers via USB sitting 1ft off the ground and roughly -1ft from the window level (IE: coolest spot in the room) and has been online for about 3-4hrs straight now. The temperature monitors show CPU cores at 23-30C (I'm just running IE and half a doze tabs atm) and the GPU's showing right at 54C constant. If it matters, I'm ALWAYS plugged into the wall (hense why I'm thinking I may as well get a tower :-p).
Looking at the extra cooling that I've thrown into the build (see above revisions), would you change your position or do you think I might need to consider liquid cooling? If it's safe, then I may just attempt the slight CPU O/C that it seems to allow (3.5Ghz --> 3.9Ghz) and see how it goes.
So...what about this? I recall the review saying something about if you use an 8Gb mSATA drive it acts like CPU cache or something along those lines?
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Everything I've read actually points to the ASUS being like everyone else and Not having an on-board GPU btw. So yeah, that leaves my Gigabyte question above. :-p |
And I don't mean they have an on-board GPU. Should have been more clear. The version you have has the connectors for VGA and DVI so they can take advantage of the on-die CPU of Sandy Bridge and Ivy Bridge processors.
Of course, now that I'm looking closer, I'm noting ALL the damn things (save a couple of the expensive "enthusiast" versions of the board) have the headers for the VGA and DVI.
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Looking at the extra cooling that I've thrown into the build (see above revisions), would you change your position or do you think I might need to consider liquid cooling? If it's safe, then I may just attempt the slight CPU O/C that it seems to allow (3.5Ghz --> 3.9Ghz) and see how it goes.
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You'd be better off buying a cheap window air conditioning unit than spending out on an expensive liquid cooling setup.
Dual VS Quad Channel DIMMs
Since nobody's questioned this so far I kinda forgot about it, but I'm noticing that the Quad (4x4Gb) channel kits are cheaper than the Dual (2x8Gb) channel kits likely because the individual dimms are cheaper. Am I doing right by sticking to the Dual channel (considering it's possible to throw a matching set and max it to 32Gb for an ungodly amount of RAM :-p) or will the build allow me to save a little bit and go Quad channel ([I hesitate to use the word] Limiting me to the 16Gb unless I buy an all new set).
The extra fans will help keep the case temps down, closer to ambient room temperature. But liquid cooling isn't going to do a hell of a lot for you since your ambient temps are already so high.
You'd be better off buying a cheap window air conditioning unit than spending out on an expensive liquid cooling setup. |
Ok, so we've pretty much covered the basics and while I do have a corded set of these I'd want a fully wireless setup (I don't really use the mouse like most do ingame). Are there any particular types of wireless mouse/KB that seem to work the best? There seem to be two types: BT and 2.4Mhz (wifi?). I even saw this cool solar KB at work right now and vaguely recall it mentioned in a thread here recently. So far I've been stealing my corded Apple mouse (the one with the tiny ball for scrolling) and normally just the builtin 104+ key laptop KB.
While I'm not Totally bind'd all out, I do tend to use the KB unless I need to click dialogs or powers in my top of screen trays. Even on my MM I don't normally use the mouse (I'm not a big buffer) except when first spawning/upgrading the pets. Obviously I'd like some precision for the later purpose of general photo/video editing, but I don't need a $90 gaming mouse with ten million buttons either. Honestly I don't need anymore than two buttons and a scroll.
I do have one important thing to consider though with mice now, unfortunately. Since my arthritis isn't getting any better I find the larger (full sized) mice to be much more comfortable. I'm right handed if that helps too. The one we carry at work (not many choices until recently) that I'd probably get seems to fit the bill. This seems to be a decent combo, but the reviews are all that good, atleast on newegg.
Supposed Gaming Combo I really question this one, but nobody's commented on it yet either.
Microsoft Option I generally question Anything M$FT, but that's a different story altogether. :-p
Another Logitech Option This may actually be a better idea mouse wise.
Cyborg Mouse included simply for the WTF factor. I can't tell if this thing is trying to be a transformer, golf club, or the batmobile!
All in all, there's really too many bloody dongles... >.<
Dual VS Quad Channel DIMMs
Since nobody's questioned this so far I kinda forgot about it, but I'm noticing that the Quad (4x4Gb) channel kits are cheaper than the Dual (2x8Gb) channel kits likely because the individual dimms are cheaper. Am I doing right by sticking to the Dual channel (considering it's possible to throw a matching set and max it to 32Gb for an ungodly amount of RAM :-p) or will the build allow me to save a little bit and go Quad channel ([I hesitate to use the word] Limiting me to the 16Gb unless I buy an all new set). |
Also, with the S2011 boards, notice there are TWO varieties.
Quad-channel, single row
Quad-channel, dual row.
QCSR boards look nearly indistinguishable from Socket 2011 boards. They have 4 DIMM slots and that's it.
It's the slightly more expensive QCDR boards that are able to mount up to 8 sticks.
And why not just buy 2 sticks of 8GB memory? Then you can chunk in another 16GB later on without replacement.
Ok, so we've pretty much covered the basics and while I do have a corded set of these I'd want a fully wireless setup (I don't really use the mouse like most do ingame). Are there any particular types of wireless mouse/KB that seem to work the best? There seem to be two types: BT and 2.4Mhz (wifi?). I even saw this cool solar KB at work right now and vaguely recall it mentioned in a thread here recently. So far I've been stealing my corded Apple mouse (the one with the tiny ball for scrolling) and normally just the builtin 104+ key laptop KB.
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I'm cheap and I hate having to buy batteries.
My setup:
Logitech G510 keyboard. 18 3-function macro buttons? Hellz yes? Please?
Microsoft Optical Mouse. While I use the macro buttons on my keyboard, I DON'T fiddle with umpty-zillion buttons on a mouse. Too easy to accidentally press one.
But to each his own.
Now, in my case, my CPU is running at 100% utilization on all cores 24/7. I've got a cooler from Zalman that's not much smaller than a brick. I have a Core i7 870. The default clock is 2.93 GHz but, if it's kept cool, it will overclock itself. It's 77F in this room and my CPU is running at 3.21 GHz because my HSF is more than sufficient to the task. Plus I have an Antec 900 case which has a 22cm (the size of a dinner plate) fan in the roof of the case.
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