System doesn't power on


EnigmaBlack

 

Posted

Hey gang,

I'm having a problem. Just purchased a new MB, Memory, CPU and power supply

GIGABYTE GA-Z68AP-D3(R2.0) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9

Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000

EVGA M020-00-000234 Superclock CPU Cooler

OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular High Performance Power.

All connections are firm and in place. I assembled the pieces using an esd mat and wrist band so I doubt static caused a short.

When I power on the system it comes on briefly and the fans spin, then it cuts off. There seems to still be power to the MB as the lights on my sound card are still on as well as the light on the CPU cooler.

I tried removing and swapping out the RAM with no success. I even tried powering up the system with no extra peripherals attached (sound card, video card, drives) and still had the same results. I also reseated the CPU... nothing.

I also tried using another PSU I have, a Thermaltake XT 775w, same results.

I'm really at a loss as to what the issue can be so I got a RMA for the MB and CPU and will hopefully get replacements next week.

I didn't think the RAM would have been the cause so I didn't RMA that. If the issue still persists when I get the replacement I'll be totally stumped, the only other thing it could be would be the case itself, an APEVIA X-Jupiter Jr. which I've had for about 4 years now.

Any ideas out there as to what could be the issue?


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Posted

I can't tell if you said this has been done yet, but try the board w/ CPU and PSU only. If it still powers down, then it's the board. If it seems to come up, then it's the RAM. As always, make sure the power plug is attached. :-p


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by EnigmaBlack View Post
Hey gang,

I'm having a problem. Just purchased a new MB, Memory, CPU and power supply

GIGABYTE GA-Z68AP-D3(R2.0) LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard

CORSAIR Vengeance 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMZ16GX3M4A1600C9

Intel Core i5-2500 Sandy Bridge 3.3GHz (3.7GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics 2000

EVGA M020-00-000234 Superclock CPU Cooler

OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W Modular High Performance Power.

All connections are firm and in place. I assembled the pieces using an esd mat and wrist band so I doubt static caused a short.

When I power on the system it comes on briefly and the fans spin, then it cuts off. There seems to still be power to the MB as the lights on my sound card are still on as well as the light on the CPU cooler.

I tried removing and swapping out the RAM with no success. I even tried powering up the system with no extra peripherals attached (sound card, video card, drives) and still had the same results. I also reseated the CPU... nothing.

I also tried using another PSU I have, a Thermaltake XT 775w, same results.

I'm really at a loss as to what the issue can be so I got a RMA for the MB and CPU and will hopefully get replacements next week.

I didn't think the RAM would have been the cause so I didn't RMA that. If the issue still persists when I get the replacement I'll be totally stumped, the only other thing it could be would be the case itself, an APEVIA X-Jupiter Jr. which I've had for about 4 years now.

Any ideas out there as to what could be the issue?

The non K 2500?

Did you try it with only 2 sticks of RAM? I've seen more than my fair share of DOA MBs but I have rarely seen CPUs that are dead.

More than likely its a bad MB.


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by newchemicals View Post
The non K 2500?
Is there an overclock set up on this as the non K version doesn't have an unlocked multiplier and your symptons do fit in with a failed overclock.

Can you try clearing your bios settings - the MB manual should tell you how to do so - probably a case of shorting a jumper but some are more friendly then check if it will load up with default settings.

Actually forget "should" just reread the system description you gave and I think that is the same MB as I have in my system at home - came with a 4.5GHz overclock but showed precisely those symptoms - could only get a stable overclock up to 4.3GHz. That is a 2500K CPU though.
If you don't have the manual I can check when I get home as to where the reset jumper is and the procedure.


Mind of Gaia lvl 50 Defiant's first Mind/Storm 'troller.
Deadly Doc 50 Dark/Dark Corr
and lots more on Pinnacle,Union and Defiant

 

Posted

Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to try some more testing today when I get home before I send back the parts with the RMA.

I have the manual so I'll recheck the instructions


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Arc ID: 413575

 

Posted

It does sound like the motherboard, but could possibly be the power supply (even though it shows power to the motherboard). Do you have another you could pop in to try?


________________________________
"Just cause you don't understand what's going on don't mean it don't make no sense
And just cause you don't like it, don't mean it ain't no good" - Suicidal Tendancies

 

Posted

Iv'e bought bad ram before, sounds alot like what you are going through.

Can't say for sure though because the gear isn't right in front of me.


Ignoring anyone is a mistake. You might miss something viral to your cause.

 

Posted

Make sure your CPU cooler and CPU have good contact (included thermal paste coverage). Most boards detect overheating and will shutdown the system to prevent damage. Just had this happen within the last week so it might be something to look at.


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torment And Agony View Post
It does sound like the motherboard, but could possibly be the power supply (even though it shows power to the motherboard). Do you have another you could pop in to try?
I tried two different PSUs, same results:
Thermaltake XT 775W and a OCZ ModXStream Pro 700W


Quote:
Originally Posted by MrHassenpheffer View Post
Iv'e bought bad ram before, sounds alot like what you are going through.

Can't say for sure though because the gear isn't right in front of me.
I tried swapping the RAM modules around with no success, going to try again tonight after resetting the CMOS and BIOS and see what happens

Quote:
Originally Posted by MissLynx View Post
Make sure your CPU cooler and CPU have good contact (included thermal paste coverage). Most boards detect overheating and will shutdown the system to prevent damage. Just had this happen within the last week so it might be something to look at.
If anything I may have had too much paste as I went a little squeeze happy and got more than a "pea" sized amount on the CPU, there was a tad bit coming over the edge which I had to clean up. I'm going to use less this time but enough to make sure there is contact.

Thanks again for all the advice


Who do I have to *&^% around here to get more Targeted AoE recipes added?

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Arc ID: 413575

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by EnigmaBlack View Post
Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to try some more testing today when I get home before I send back the parts with the RMA.

I have the manual so I'll recheck the instructions
OK no problem CMOS jumper is shown on p7 bottom right opposite the ram slots
Procedure on p25 - unplug from mains and short the jumper.

Load the Fail Safe defaults - you can reapply any overclock once you know you have a working system.

Doesn't sound like failed ram - that will generally give a beep code and you say you find the system still auto shutting down with nothing installed except the CPU and presumably the CPU fan.



That would restrict it to MB, CPU or PSU - same problem with the other PSU make it unlikely that is the problem.

So as I said clear your BIOS settings and then try again with only CPU and CPU fan connected - if the fan keeps spinning start adding everything else back in until either it fails or you have a working system.



Oh and too much TIM between the CPU and the heatsink can be worse than too little as it will act as a thermal insulator - it is intended to fill in the microscopic gaps not to create a thick layer between the two. It has better conductivity than air but is much poorer than metal to metal contact


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Deadly Doc 50 Dark/Dark Corr
and lots more on Pinnacle,Union and Defiant

 

Posted

what your seeing is the mb or ps turning itself off because it see a dead short in the system. check that there no screws shorting the under side of the mb (ie dropped screw) or the i/o shield short or one of the stand off is missing and the mb is hitting the mb tray.also check that your reset/power and hd led wires are on the right header. you may have the hd header on the reset pins and the mb is stuck in reset mode. you can check your ps to see if it fine by google power supply green wire. with a small wire or paper clip you can make any power supply turn on without being connected to a mb. also on your build check that you pluged in the atx power plug it a small 4 pin plug and if your using a video card that all the power plugs are connected.


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by microc View Post
what your seeing is the mb or ps turning itself off because it see a dead short in the system. check that there no screws shorting the under side of the mb (ie dropped screw) or the i/o shield short or one of the stand off is missing and the mb is hitting the mb tray.also check that your reset/power and hd led wires are on the right header. you may have the hd header on the reset pins and the mb is stuck in reset mode. you can check your ps to see if it fine by google power supply green wire. with a small wire or paper clip you can make any power supply turn on without being connected to a mb. also on your build check that you pluged in the atx power plug it a small 4 pin plug and if your using a video card that all the power plugs are connected.

That's not the only cause - what is happening is that when the PC is powered up the PSU checks the PWR_CHK line if this does not return +5v it assumes there is a fault and immedietely powers down to protect the system. A short can cause this but so can faulty MB, CPU or PSU or indeed anything that shows up during POST which is deemed sufficiently critical including the thermal sensor on the CPU which will signal a fault if the temperatures go too high and ground the PWR_CHECK thus shutting down the PSU.

The reason you can power up the PSU in that way is because you are bridging the +5v line to the PWR_CHK line but bear in mind that the +5V is rated to carry much higher currents.


For a short the most likely causes are a screw dropped inside the case - quickest check for that - pick up the PC and shake it - if you hear a metallic rattle something is loose that shouldn't be. Just don't forget PCs are heavy so bend your knees NOT your back.


Mind of Gaia lvl 50 Defiant's first Mind/Storm 'troller.
Deadly Doc 50 Dark/Dark Corr
and lots more on Pinnacle,Union and Defiant

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Gaia View Post
OK no problem CMOS jumper is shown on p7 bottom right opposite the ram slots
Procedure on p25 - unplug from mains and short the jumper.

Load the Fail Safe defaults - you can reapply any overclock once you know you have a working system.

Doesn't sound like failed ram - that will generally give a beep code and you say you find the system still auto shutting down with nothing installed except the CPU and presumably the CPU fan.



That would restrict it to MB, CPU or PSU - same problem with the other PSU make it unlikely that is the problem.

So as I said clear your BIOS settings and then try again with only CPU and CPU fan connected - if the fan keeps spinning start adding everything else back in until either it fails or you have a working system.



Oh and too much TIM between the CPU and the heatsink can be worse than too little as it will act as a thermal insulator - it is intended to fill in the microscopic gaps not to create a thick layer between the two. It has better conductivity than air but is much poorer than metal to metal contact
I reset the jumpers, same results.

I also reseated everything, same results.

Quote:
Originally Posted by microc View Post
what your seeing is the mb or ps turning itself off because it see a dead short in the system. check that there no screws shorting the under side of the mb (ie dropped screw) or the i/o shield short or one of the stand off is missing and the mb is hitting the mb tray.also check that your reset/power and hd led wires are on the right header. you may have the hd header on the reset pins and the mb is stuck in reset mode. you can check your ps to see if it fine by google power supply green wire. with a small wire or paper clip you can make any power supply turn on without being connected to a mb. also on your build check that you pluged in the atx power plug it a small 4 pin plug and if your using a video card that all the power plugs are connected.
I had both ATX plugs connected. I also tried to turn on the system by using a screwdriver to touch the power pins on the MB, same results. This was without the video and sound card.

I also checked for loose screws, none found.

I sent back the MB and CPU today, hopefully I'll get it back by Tuesday.


Who do I have to *&^% around here to get more Targeted AoE recipes added?

Arc Name: Tsoo In Love
Arc ID: 413575

 

Posted

Re-reading everything it was definitely the motherboard. As for your thermal paste, I found somewhere online that some people suggest different methods for different chips. It's been a while, but it had something to do with the physical location of the coprocessors on the die of full speed CPUs and less powered ones like the celerons.


 

Posted

I got the replacement parts yesterday and put the system together. I bench tested it and got the same results. I didn't want to believe that I had so much bad luck that the replacements were no good either so I decided to try the CPU with the stock fan instead of the EVGA Supercooler. Lo and behold the system powered on and booted up fine.

So all this time it was the cooler, I returned it for a refund. Right now the CPU is running about 47 degrees Celsius when playing CoH. I will see how it runs over the next few weeks and decide whether or not to buy another heat sink and fan.

At least I will have my two machines for double XP weekend!

Thanks again all for your help!


Who do I have to *&^% around here to get more Targeted AoE recipes added?

Arc Name: Tsoo In Love
Arc ID: 413575