Starting build need motherboard adveice
By
Airhammer,
Posted on: 2012-02-22 17:00 in ALL ACCESS Gameplay Technical Issues Bugs
The coolermaster hyper 212 evo should be more than enough for your needs for $30-35 its a very good purchase.
While the Noctua is a better performer, its HUGE! it requires having skill at using needle nose pliers to get things installed around that HUGE thing. Its not cheap either.
H: Blaster 50, Defender 50, Tank 50, Scrapper 50, Controller 50, PB 50, WS 50
V: Brute 50, Corruptor 50, MM 50, Dominator 50, Stalker 50, AW 50, AS 50
Top 4: Controller, Brute, Scrapper, Corruptor
Bottom 4: (Peacebringer) way below everything else, Mastermind, Dominator, Blaster
CoH in WQHD
Not going to comment on the motherboard. I built my system over a year ago so I'm not up to date on current mobos.
Will this board allow me to utilize a small SSD ( 32 -64 gigs ) on the motherboard to use as a cache to boot up Windows and CoH faster ?? does this attach directly to the motherboard or does it go to one of the hard drive bays ??
I think you actually mean installing it as a BOOT DRIVE, rather than a CACHE - i.e. the SSD would be your C: drive. It probably won't go in a drive bay. Most recent cases have a dedicated location for installing an SSD. Mine has a spot on the floor of the case and came with rubber mounting grommets. Why? I dunno. It's not like SSDs are sensitive to vibrations or make any noise. <shrug>
You'll use a SATA connector and a power connector, just like any other drive. Well, any drive recent enough that it doesn't use IDE.
Which SSD should I choose. I have looked at Corsair and they seem to make pretty decent stuff. I am going with their 500r case and I like their modular power supplies as well.
Corsair should be fine. I haven't heard anything bad about their SSD's and they're certainly a dependable name for other components. My SSD is Crucial.
Will this work Wirelessly from the MB or will I need to get some type of wireless USB device.. right now my PC is wired into my router but the router is wireless and when we ge ta bigger apartment I want the ability to move my PC where ever I want...
I never set up a tower system to use wireless and never will. For laptops, fine. For a desktop, since it's not going to MOVE, you really want a wire. ESPECIALLY for gaming. Seriously, how often are you going to move it? My system has a rats nest of cables behind it. Is yours different?
Do I need a cooler for the motherboard.. I will run my PC for hours of gaming.. should I get one..
Actually, gaming doesn't put a lot of stress on the CPU. The video card does the heavy lifting. However, you asked about overclocking. If you even CONSIDER overclocking, hell yes you want an aftermarket cooler. Now, my CPU is running flat-out - 100% utilization on all cores, 24 hours a day. So I have an aftermarket cooler. It's from Zalman and it's freaking enormous. I had to review case dimensions to make sure it would fit.
The OEM coolers from Intel are much better than they used to be. If you were certain you would never overclock, I'd say stick with the stock cooler. If you want to see what's out there, and how effective they are, I'd check out www.overclockers.com and www.tomshardware.com
Paragon City Search And Rescue
The Mentor Project
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Yes to both questions. Actually it'll probably allow you to overclock it a lot, at least to 4GHz.| Will this allow me to overclock a little and possibly expand into an SLI configuration later? Im thinking about utilzing an old 32" HDTV as a monitor at some point and have heard that SLI will work well for this ( how true that is I do not know ) |
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| Will this board allow me to utilize a small SSD ( 32 -64 gigs ) on the motherboard to use as a cache to boot up Windows and CoH faster ?? does this attach directly to the motherboard or does it go to one of the hard drive bays ?? |
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| Which SSD should I choose. I have looked at Corsair and they seem to make pretty decent stuff. I am going with their 500r case and I like their modular power supplies as well. |
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| Will this work Wirelessly from the MB or will I need to get some type of wireless USB device.. right now my PC is wired into my router but the router is wireless and when we ge ta bigger apartment I want the ability to move my PC where ever I want... |
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| Do I need a cooler for the motherboard.. I will run my PC for hours of gaming.. should I get one.. I prefer non liquid and as QUIET as possible. The Noctua, Thermaltakes and the Coolermaster Hyper 212 seem to be the most popular.. Do I even need one of these.. |
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
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Why yes! Yes I dd! |
Originally Posted by Airhammer
I am ready to start putting together my PC.. tax returns came in nice and early so I am ready to start piecing it together.. My only issue is the Motherboard...
Hyperstrike suggested this one initially http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131792 |
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| Im going with a Corsair Carbide 500r case which i am prettu sure takes an ATX no problem. |
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im going with this processor on Hyperstrike suggestion http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115072 |
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| Being a novice I have a still few questions.. |
Just kidding. Ask away.
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| Will this allow me to overclock a little and possibly expand into an SLI configuration later? Im thinking about utilzing an old 32" HDTV as a monitor at some point and have heard that SLI will work well for this ( how true that is I do not know ) |
If you plan on overclocking, go with something more than the default heatsink/fan setup though.
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| Will this board allow me to utilize a small SSD ( 32 -64 gigs ) on the motherboard to use as a cache to boot up Windows and CoH faster ?? does this attach directly to the motherboard or does it go to one of the hard drive bays ?? |
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| Which SSD should I choose. I have looked at Corsair and they seem to make pretty decent stuff. I am going with their 500r case and I like their modular power supplies as well. |
You can get OCZ drives cheaper, but I hesitate to suggest them as their latest couple generations have had some quality control issues.
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| Will this work Wirelessly from the MB or will I need to get some type of wireless USB device.. right now my PC is wired into my router but the router is wireless and when we ge ta bigger apartment I want the ability to move my PC where ever I want... |
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| Do I need a cooler for the motherboard.. I will run my PC for hours of gaming.. should I get one.. I prefer non liquid and as QUIET as possible. The Noctua, Thermaltakes and the Coolermaster Hyper 212 seem to be the most popular.. Do I even need one of these.. |
The Coolermaster should be fine.
As for liquid, I wouldn't worry too much. Modern self-contained liquid cooling is very VERY safe and maintenance free. It also clears up a lot of space around the motherboard that's otherwise filled with a chunk of heatsink.
Also, that case is specifically built for it.
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| my original budget was 1000-1200.. Id dont mind spending 1400-1600 to get a few better things that will make my system work better.. cooler and last much longer.. and give me the ability to upgrade down the line.. |
This will help keep airflow through the case high.
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
Hyperstrike can you compare the Gigabyte motherboard that Fxmas recommended in his post to the one you recommended?
I think I will go with one of those two..
I am looking now at the Corsair H80 or H100 radiators since they fit within the case i chose well.. they seem to be well prices and I have seen pretty good reviews everywhere...
Also could you post a link to someplace that can advise me once I get started.. I am not concerned about plugging things together but I have never done a PC from scratch so I know nothing about how to install the OS or make sure the Bios stuff is up to date..
Should I plug to the MB first and make sure everything works and is installed and updated BEFORE i put everything in the case ??
Thanks..
I am going to go with Cruical or Corsair for the SSD probably 64GG is all I will need.. I looked around at OCZ and didnt get a good vibe from their stuff at all..
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
I found an excellent online how to build guide @ pcmech !!!!
Im getting excited.. new PC.. building it myself.. faster load times !!! less noise !!!!
playing ultra mode.. no longer the LAST person into the mission..
( wonder how much XP ive missed over the years )
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
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Okay I took a look. Yeah, it has an mSATA connector. But the connector is squeezed between the CPU and the first PCI-E x16 slot. If you put a large heatsink in there you're going to have space issues trying to insert the mSATA SSD.|
Originally Posted by Airhammer
Hyperstrike can you compare the Gigabyte motherboard that Fxmas recommended in his post to the one you recommended?
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For initial setup, when you'd put the SSD in before putting the heatsink on, this won't be a huge problem. But servicing it afterwards will be problematic and likely require you to have to remove the heatsink.
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I am looking now at the Corsair H80 or H100 radiators since they fit within the case i chose well.. they seem to be well prices and I have seen pretty good reviews everywhere... Also could you post a link to someplace that can advise me once I get started.. I am not concerned about plugging things together but I have never done a PC from scratch so I know nothing about how to install the OS or make sure the Bios stuff is up to date.. |
A lot of the motherboard pillars (the brass piece you see above) now support the more conventional "rounded" hex heads like this:
I actually found this out the Hard Way. I set up a client's machine with the older dome screws fixing things and had half of them pop off the pillars on me. NOT a happy camper. Especially since the case they were used in was quite a tight fit.
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| Should I plug to the MB first and make sure everything works and is installed and updated BEFORE i put everything in the case ?? |
If you're going with liquid cooling the very first thing you're going to want to do is install the radiator into the top of the case.
Assemble the motherboard stuff next.
- Put in the CPU
- Plug in the memory
- Apply thermal paste and attach the heatsink (if going liquid cooling, attach the backplate for the water block, then attach the water block after you've screwed in the motherboard and attached the power connectors.
How to apply thermal paste:
http://www.maximumpc.com/article/how..._thermal_paste
Video on how to remove and apply:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I3gx6c62D7I
Replace the default IO backplate on the case with the one provided by Asus. Just pop the old one out and pop the new one in. Make sure you put it in with the "padding" side facing in and that the shield isn't upside-down. Pretty straightforward.
Install any case fans at this point. Make sure the ones up front are aligned to blow INTO the case (most fans have a directional arrow to help you figure it out). The ones in the back and at the top (attached to the radiuator if you're liquid cooling) should blow out of the case.
Make sure you have all 6 of the ATX screw posts already in the case.
There will be three along the top, three in the middle and three at the bottom. They don't all line up directly, so keep an eye on this. And don't simply ignore the center posts. You DON'T want to be flexing your motherboard when you're working on it.
Once you're sure you've got the posts in place (you can trial run it by slipping the motherboard in and checking position against the screw holes on the board, just be careful).
Finally, screw in the motherboard. With the padded backplate you'll have to push just a little to seat it back properly. But this will provide a nice tight fight against the IO shield and position it perfectly for card installation.
Once the motherboard is in, put in the power supply and connect it up. If you go modular, only install the bare minimum connectors you need. Cuts down on cable clutter.
Now I'm going to say a not-so-quick word about CABLE ROUTING.
Take BOTH side plates off your case while installing. Notice the grommets on the motherboard tray? The case is intended to have most of the cables routed behind the motherboard tray to keep them out of the main case cavity, so they don't impede air flow.
USE THEM. Take some time cleanly routing your cables when you install the system. DON'T leave a rats' nest of cables in the main cavity.
There are numerous products out there that help with this. The cheapest are zip-ties. If you use these, be VERY careful NOT to cinch them down very tight. If you get too crazy you can wind up cutting wires.
There are also velcro cable ties so you don't have to futz with cutting off zip ties.
There's also adhesive cable clips for keeping stuff cleanly separated (instead of bundling the ties up).
The basic gist of it is, if you keep the main portion of the case clear of extra obstructions, you can keep air-flow high and the case and components will stay cooler.
Connect up the case and fan connectors too. Asus provides you with an "Easy" case connector standoff. This way you're not futzing with needle nose pliers trying to get the connectors on or connecting them backward. Just connect the case connectors to the standoff, then plug the standoff down onto the motherboard. You also should have a couple plugs that go into the motherboard's internal USB connectors (for the case's front plate USB connectors).
If liquid cooling, now is the time to apply the thermal paste and hook up the waterblock.
Install your video card and any other PCI/PCI-E cards.
Stand the case up and install your optical drive, hard drives and any SSDs.
From here you can plug in the PSU, make sure if it has an external power switch that it's in the "on" position, and power the sucker on.
To get into the BIOS the first time, refer to the manual. Usually it's something like F1 or F2.
With modern drives and SSDs you'll want to set drive compatibility to AHCI. Not IDE/compatibility. You also want to set the date if it isn't already auto-set.
Look around the BIOS and make sure the device manager is seeing both your SSD, HD and optical drive.
If you're not going to have anyone futzing with your machine, set the boot device priority to Optical, then the drive you're booting to.
If you want to prevent people tampering with your system if they have physical access, set the priority to your prospective boot drive, then the optical. The first time through, it'll fail on the boot drive (because nothing's installed) and boot from the CD/DVD.
When you exit the BIOS, make SURE you take the option to save and exit (usually F10). Let the system reboot itself, then install Windows.
Once Windows is in, install the device drives from the included CD/DVD. I recommend NOT letting it "auto-install" everything. Some of the disks install a bunch of unnecessary crap if you do. You want JUST device drivers. Also, this is the point where you need to look at the manual for how to set up the SSD cache.
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| Thanks.. |
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| I am going to go with Crucial or Corsair for the SSD probably 64GG is all I will need.. I looked around at OCZ and didn't get a good vibe from their stuff at all.. |
Also, I recommend, if you have an external hard drive or another machine on the network with lots of space, that you get a copy of Acronis True Image. Once you get Windows installed, patched and your basic apps (and CoH) in, boot off the Acronis disk and make a disk image of your drive to the external HD/network location. This'll probably take a few hours. Set it and then go get yourself something to eat.
This way, if something "blows up" on you, you can restore a more or less complete, patched system instead of starting from scratch.
Restoring from an image and patching to the latest levels? A couple hours to a day, and the system is completely usable after an hour or so.
Restoring from a bare hard drive and reinstalling everything? Several days at least and the system is only marginally useful during much of that time.
Also, you're going to hear about "X-second boot times".
That is NOT factored from power-on to sign-on. It's factored from the time your BIOS hands off to the OS bootloader until you get a sign-on prompt.
Every motherboard takes a slightly different amount of time to check itself out and load things up before handing off to the OS.
So you start counting as soon as you see the windows loading screen.
My older system with an SSD raid takes about a minute and a half to two minutes to go from power-on to sign-on. But it only takes about 17 seconds for Windows to load.
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
I didn't recommend that Gigabyte motherboard. It just sounded like someone thought you were "misinformed/crazy" when you asked if the SSD attaches directly to the motherboard so I was just pointing one out with a mSATA connector for SSD to show such a thing exist.
That Asus motherboard is just fine, sorry for the confusion.
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
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Its all good.. I wasnt confused at all. I just thought you might have seen something better that I didnt.. I am going with the Asus.. Now just thinking about my cooling options..|
Originally Posted by Father Xmas
I didn't recommend that Gigabyte motherboard. It just sounded like someone thought you were "misinformed/crazy" when you asked if the SSD attaches directly to the motherboard so I was just pointing one out with a mSATA connector for SSD to show such a thing exist.
That Asus motherboard is just fine, sorry for the confusion. |
One thing.. i am learning a LOT from you guys.. your advice had taken away a lot of the fear of building my own system.
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
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It's always nice to have options. Just that, sometimes, choice can be rather angst-inducing. Still, you should wind up with a fairly butt-kicking machine when all is said and done.|
Originally Posted by Airhammer
Its all good.. I wasnt confused at all. I just thought you might have seen something better that I didnt.. I am going with the Asus.. Now just thinking about my cooling options..
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| One thing.. i am learning a LOT from you guys.. your advice had taken away a lot of the fear of building my own system. |
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
A couple of years ago I posted this describing assembling a system based on my $1200 parts list at the time. It's hardly a detail oriented guide but it does include a pair of links at the end to other "how to assemble your system" guides.
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
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Keep some fear about one thing: static electricity.|
Originally Posted by Airhammer
One thing.. i am learning a LOT from you guys.. your advice had taken away a lot of the fear of building my own system.
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I read an account from someone who had just taken his new graphics card out of the anti-static bag, unaware that his girlfriend was sneaking up behind him across a carpeted floor, planning to kiss him on the cheek.
ZAP!
Scratch one graphics card.
Paragon City Search And Rescue
The Mentor Project
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I have no fears about that because I have hardwood floors and I plan on grounding myself consistently through the build process..
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Originally Posted by Ironblade
Keep some fear about one thing: static electricity.
I read an account from someone who had just taken his new graphics card out of the anti-static bag, unaware that his girlfriend was sneaking up behind him across a carpeted floor, planning to kiss him on the cheek. ZAP! Scratch one graphics card. |
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
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I'm reminded of this...
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Originally Posted by Airhammer
I have no fears about that because I have hardwood floors and I plan on grounding myself consistently through the build process..
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Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
I will not be naked.. however I do plan to dress minimally and nothing fuzzy..
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
Im down to one last component selection... CPU coolers
Corsair H80 (liquid) or Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (Air)
Both get great reviews.. Hyper 212 is less expensive, Corsair H80 might be better in the long run for better cooling...
I can go either way..
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
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Is there a reason you are looking at the H80 rather than the H100?|
Originally Posted by Airhammer
Im down to one last component selection... CPU coolers
Corsair H80 (liquid) or Cooler Master Hyper 212 Evo (Air) Both get great reviews.. Hyper 212 is less expensive, Corsair H80 might be better in the long run for better cooling... I can go either way.. |
Not that I'm advocating you building a "Tim Taylor Special 500 HP garbage disposal" or anything.
Just curious what spurred the choice for that specific unit.
Budget won't stretch the $15 differential?
Just trying for a "middle way" between the H60 and the H100?
Don't wanna hassle with a radiator that big?
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
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I preferred this one.|
Originally Posted by Hyperstrike
I'm reminded of this...
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Originally Posted by Hyperstrike
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Not that I'm advocating you building a "Tim Taylor Special 500 HP garbage disposal" or anything. Just curious what spurred the choice for that specific unit. Budget won't stretch the $15 differential? Just trying for a "middle way" between the H60 and the H100? Don't wanna hassle with a radiator that big? |
Hardware Secrets chart (bottom of page) shows the temperature delta of various heatsinks when cooling an overclocked i7-860. However this is a mild overclock.
NewEgg has the Hyper 212 Evo for $35, the H80 for $92 (on sale) and the H100 for $105 (on sale after rebate). The H80 really replaces the rear case fan with the radiator/fans while the H100 radiator leaves the rear case fan alone and would be mounted in the top of the 500R. I guess in the case of the H80 you could always move the rear case fan to one of the two upper mounts.
I do know that there's a limit to how much heat the Hyper 212 Evo can dissipate. It does well enough for mid level overclocking but if you really want to push it then the H100 does the job of CPU cooling a lot better.
While I'm personally not a fan of liquid cooling but I can understand why it's attractive. However having another point of failure or two (the pump dieing or springing a leak) concerns me since I leave my system on 24/7 (BOINC) even while I'm away on business.
Father Xmas - Level 50 Ice/Ice Tanker - Victory
$725 and $1350 parts lists --- My guide to computer components
Tempus unum hominem manet
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Ive accepted the fact that Ive pretty much destroyed my original budget. Im going to get what I want even if it means I have to wait a little longer. |
Originally Posted by Hyperstrike
Is there a reason you are looking at the H80 rather than the H100?
Not that I'm advocating you building a "Tim Taylor Special 500 HP garbage disposal" or anything. Just curious what spurred the choice for that specific unit. Budget won't stretch the $15 differential? Just trying for a "middle way" between the H60 and the H100? Don't wanna hassle with a radiator that big? |
The H80 was a fair compromise. However the H100 will serve be better in the long run and I have seen nothing but good reviews about it. The little extra cash gives me a little extra cooling and it will fit in the top of the Corsair 500r perfectly too..
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-
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Originally Posted by Airhammer
Ive accepted the fact that Ive pretty much destroyed my original budget.
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| The H80 was a fair compromise. However the H100 will serve be better in the long run and I have seen nothing but good reviews about it. The little extra cash gives me a little extra cooling and it will fit in the top of the Corsair 500r perfectly too.. |
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
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With the Corsair liquid coolers, you'd have to be SERIOUSLY abusing your system (as in tossing it down stairs) before it pops a leak.|
Originally Posted by Father Xmas
While I'm personally not a fan of liquid cooling but I can understand why it's attractive. However having another point of failure or two (the pump dieing or springing a leak) concerns me since I leave my system on 24/7 (BOINC) even while I'm away on business.
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The pump dying is a valid concern, but I know of several people using H60 and H80 series coolers with no problems right now.
Additionally, with the thermal protection present in modern CPUs it's actually rather difficult to fry a CPU nowadays.
Clicking on the linked image above will take you off the City of Heroes site. However, the guides will be linked back here.
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Originally Posted by Ironblade
Now, my CPU is running flat-out - 100% utilization on all cores, 24 hours a day. So I have an aftermarket cooler.
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Originally Posted by Father Xmas
However having another point of failure or two (the pump dieing or springing a leak) concerns me since I leave my system on 24/7 (BOINC) even while I'm away on business.
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Paragon City Search And Rescue
The Mentor Project
some tips..pick up a computer case screw kit. it good to have few extra standoff and other screws. when you put the mb onto the mb tray dont screw the first two or three standoff as tight as you can.your going to have to line up the mb with the rear case shield and stand offs. also pick up a bag of zip ties they help keep the wire clutter down. the hardest part going to be putting on the case led/hd/power and reset cables there going to be on a tight header on the edge of the mb. on some cases the cable (+)(-) are not put on the cable connector some are and are a plus. with airflow have the front fan blowing in and the rear out or front in and top out. most new mb use efi bios that gui bases and runs in windows. most vendors now allow up to flash the bios in windows. a rule with flashing bios is back up the old one to a usb/floppy disk. if the flash fails most new mb have a clear cmos/recoverable flash all you need is the old one. if you have a local micro center they have better cpu prices on the retail intel cpu then new egg.
I am ready to start putting together my PC.. tax returns came in nice and early so I am ready to start piecing it together.. My only issue is the Motherboard...
Hyperstrike suggested this one initially
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16813131792
Im going with a Corsair Carbide 500r case which i am prettu sure takes an ATX no problem.
im going with this processor on Hyperstrike suggestion
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16819115072
Being a novice I have a still few questions..
Will this allow me to overclock a little and possibly expand into an SLI configuration later? Im thinking about utilzing an old 32" HDTV as a monitor at some point and have heard that SLI will work well for this ( how true that is I do not know )
Will this board allow me to utilize a small SSD ( 32 -64 gigs ) on the motherboard to use as a cache to boot up Windows and CoH faster ?? does this attach directly to the motherboard or does it go to one of the hard drive bays ??
Which SSD should I choose. I have looked at Corsair and they seem to make pretty decent stuff. I am going with their 500r case and I like their modular power supplies as well.
Will this work Wirelessly from the MB or will I need to get some type of wireless USB device.. right now my PC is wired into my router but the router is wireless and when we ge ta bigger apartment I want the ability to move my PC where ever I want...
Do I need a cooler for the motherboard.. I will run my PC for hours of gaming.. should I get one.. I prefer non liquid and as QUIET as possible. The Noctua, Thermaltakes and the Coolermaster Hyper 212 seem to be the most popular.. Do I even need one of these..
my original budget was 1000-1200.. Id dont mind spending 1400-1600 to get a few better things that will make my system work better.. cooler and last much longer.. and give me the ability to upgrade down the line..
I pretty much have the case, cpu (going 1-5 Sandy Bridge ), ram and video card figured out.. Not going crazy on the PSU but not going to skimp.. will probably buy a little more power than I need hedging against the future...
with everyones help and reading sites suggested I have figured out a lot.. just dont know jack about the MB's...
The hard things I can do--- The impossible just take a little bit longer.
If numbers are so much more important than a teammate who is fun to play with, forget about the game altogether and go play with a calculator instead. -Claws and Effect-