Question about getting more RAM for my CPU...
And my follow up question:
If I walk into the store, what kind of memory should I pick up? Basically, I want to be able to tell the guy "My CPU can use XXX memory, which ones can I choose from?" I plan to go get it tonight.
And my follow up question:
If I walk into the store, what kind of memory should I pick up? Basically, I want to be able to tell the guy "My CPU can use XXX memory, which ones can I choose from?" I plan to go get it tonight. |
Pick up 2 x 2GB sticks, that would take you up to 8GB usable *once* you pick up a 64bit version of Windows 7.
So ask for DDR2 800Mhz. If you are unsure of what the person hands you, look for PC2-6400 on the packaging (it normally gets hidden amongst the item description). As long as that it there, you are golden.
So remember 2 sticks of 2GB DDR2 800Mhz ram.
I just hope that someone can also post, as i have had a few to drink, and would like some reassurance on all of this as well (Yeah, i have built all of my own PC's and i still like reassurance sometimes)
Okay. All I can say to that is "wow".
Still not sure if it's showing all memory taken by both the processes you had running or if the client is now large-memory aware. I haven't had a chance to check it out. I will be keeping an eye on it. Thanks for this heads-up, as I don't want to be spewing information that's outdated on this subject. |
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Looking at the online manual i can find for your motherboard, it can support DDR2 800Mhz RAM (aka PC2-6400 RAM).
Pick up 2 x 2GB sticks, that would take you up to 8GB usable *once* you pick up a 64bit version of Windows 7. So ask for DDR2 800Mhz. If you are unsure of what the person hands you, look for PC2-6400 on the packaging (it normally gets hidden amongst the item description). As long as that it there, you are golden. So remember 2 sticks of 2GB DDR2 800Mhz ram. I just hope that someone can also post, as i have had a few to drink, and would like some reassurance on all of this as well (Yeah, i have built all of my own PC's and i still like reassurance sometimes) |
My last question is, so these 2 sticks of 2 GB DDR2 800 MHZ Ram will be compatible with my current RAM?
3) I don't download anything to this CPU and if I do I generally delete it ASAP. Mostly because I don't run Virus scan and I go to very limited websites on this CPU. If I do have to browse foreign places, I use my IPHONE.
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Ok my question is, if I go down to Fry's Electronics and buy Windows 7. Do they just give me a disk and I just put that into the CPU and it will install itself after a few clicks and format everything? Is it that simple? Do I need a disk with all the drivers for my hardware such as the motherboard, or processor whatever? |
I am not sure what dual channel or triple channel means? Can you say that in layman terms? |
In the case of triple channel, it interleaves between three matched memory modules.
Your board is an nVidia 750i from what it looks like. It takes DDR-800 and runs dual-channel.
I am also looking to go to at least 8 gig ram maybe 10 gig. How do I know what RAM is currently in my CPU? |
How do I find out what motherboard I have? I had the old one on this CPU I believe replaced and got another one upgraded for free.
|
System Manufacturer: EVGA__
System Model: nForce 750i SLI
This is your board. (PDF Link)
Also, I know you're worried that Win7 won't be supported on your hardware. Put it to rest. Your mainboard has support for 64-bit Vista. So you're safe as far as Windows 7 goes.
And my follow up question:
If I walk into the store, what kind of memory should I pick up? Basically, I want to be able to tell the guy "My CPU can use XXX memory, which ones can I choose from?" I plan to go get it tonight. |
I'd recommend getting the 4ns stuff as opposed to cheaper 5-6ns stuff. The price difference is less than $10, and you'd see a small degradation in memory performance if you went with stuff that had 5-6ns timings.
Again, look at the PM I shot you. The memory that's in there right now is Corsair Dominator memory. It's 4ns stuff (low latency). Nowadays, similar low latency DDR2-800 runs about $60 for 2x2GB kits.
I'd recommend getting the 4ns stuff as opposed to cheaper 5-6ns stuff. The price difference is less than $10, and you'd see a small degradation in memory performance if you went with stuff that had 5-6ns timings. |
Okay. All I can say to that is "wow". Still not sure if it's showing all memory taken by both the processes you had running or if the client is now large-memory aware. I haven't had a chance to check it out. I will be keeping an eye on it. Thanks for this heads-up, as I don't want to be spewing information that's outdated on this subject. |
I see it and I still can't quite believe it myself. Unless this is an extremely recent change to the client, I've never seen that happen in all the times I've watched memory usage for the client. I would have sworn the client was still two gig heap limited. Time to dig up the debugger again, I guess. |
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Sorry I am a bit late to this discussion, had to deal with the damn forum log in bug that does not take my password. Ultimus if you want to save a bit of money on this upgrade this is what you should do. Others have suggested that you get the uprgrade version of windows. You do not have to pay hundreds of dollars to get it if you are a student or know someone who is a student that is willing to buy it for you. if you go to www.microsoft.com/student they offer the software at an extremely discounted price of $30 for the upgrade version of windows 7 professional and $70 for microsoft office 2010. Yeah this is a legit deal because I have family members who bought it this way as well as students at the college that I do desktop support for now. Keep in mind with an upgrade version of windows YOU HAVE TO START THE INSTALLATION FROM WITHIN WINDOWS. This is the only way to get it to use your product key, otherwise it will not activate your copy of windows.
Now if you already have windows 7 and its 32-bit you do not have to buy another version of it, you just need 64-bit media. It does not matter if its retail or oem media. All non-volume license media is the same. From windows vista going forward the windows installation does not care what disc you use no matter what its labeled as (retail, upgrade, or oem) it only checks for what key is used and whether the installation started at boot up or from within windows (if you have an upgrade key).
As the others have said you will have to do a clean install going from 32 to 64 bit but if your using the upgrade key it has to be started from within windows. If for some reason you want to put it on a new blank hard drive then all you have to do is install it twice, but on the first install skip putting in the product key and on the 2nd install start it from inside of windows and choose custom install. Again this too is legit because this is the only way to do a "clean" install with an upgrade key. This behavior of the way upgrades work for windows 7/vista is by design. While it does seem like a bit of a headache to do 2 installs you can always create a image backup file of you final tweaked install so that in the future you just restore the image to that drive. This will in turn save you tons of time in the long run. If you have questions on getting it setup let me know and may be able to assist you in this.
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Well I installed the new memory, I deleted my hard drive and installed Windows 7 64-Bit...
And what happened?
THE CRASHING HAS STOPPED! PROBLEM SOLVED!
Yep no more crashing played many hours yesterday with no problems.
Well I installed the new memory, I deleted my hard drive and installed Windows 7 64-Bit...
And what happened? THE CRASHING HAS STOPPED! PROBLEM SOLVED! Yep no more crashing played many hours yesterday with no problems. |

Nice job boss!
Ok so this should help?
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/16/ult1.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/683/ult2.jpg/