Another "new computer" question thread!
i definately would change the power supply. if not you will fry components.
what i do to keep cool in the summer is to keep the side of the comp open and blow a small fan into the case if i have to. that way i don't have to worry about temperatures. you may have to do extra cleanign once in a while, but it is worth it.
So I bought a off-the-shelf computer from the local BuyMore
![]() 1) Power Supply. It came with a 300W power supply. I added a second fan and a video card that recommends having a 400W power supply. I currently have no problems with performance. Question 1: Should I upgrade the power supply immediately or only if I add additional 'stuff' like say if I modify the case to put in funky lights? |
Trust me on this. You really, really, really, really, really, really do not want your power supply physically catching on fire.
2) Temperature. Running hot is a bad thing. I put in a second fan (donated by the previous comp) and will shut off the comp when not in use. However, the gaming room / gym/ workshop is a converted garage that gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. (it doesn't freeze, but the mountains on my beer bottles turn blue). It's the summer though that has me curious and slightly concerned. So I'm thinking of adding a temperature probe. Question 2: What is the maximum safe operating temperature of the internal area of a computer before shutdown is needed? |
Now, many enthusiast motherboards will allow you to set a shutdown temperature, and a quick survey of my computers there's an average shutdown processor temp of 65c / 150f. Many consumer motherboards, such as those you find in Gateway, HP, or Dell, don't have this feature, or they'll have it, but won't allow you to change it. They'll just shut off automatically.
Now, my Biostar I7 motherboard will let me set a maximum processor shutdown temp of 100c / 212f. Based on personal experience, I'd say that you wouldn't want the processor to go over 85c / 185f. Most "consumer" components will start to have problems around this temperature range.
As to what your internal case temperature will be before you processor gets that hot? Hard to say. I'd actually be worried about the other components of your computer, such as the hard-drive, if internal temperatures were to increase beyond 130f.
Power Supply: Very well. I'm convinced. With the word "recommended" being used, rather than "required" or even "heavily recommended", I was considering staying with the original power supply for a short time.
So.....if 300 was the base and 400 was recommended, what should do YOU folks recommend that I get?
Power Supply: Very well. I'm convinced. With the word "recommended" being used, rather than "required" or even "heavily recommended", I was considering staying with the original power supply for a short time.
So.....if 300 was the base and 400 was recommended, what should do YOU folks recommend that I get? |
Power Supply: Very well. I'm convinced. With the word "recommended" being used, rather than "required" or even "heavily recommended", I was considering staying with the original power supply for a short time.
So.....if 300 was the base and 400 was recommended, what should do YOU folks recommend that I get? |
That being said, if you intend to use your components in a non-stock manner, such as overclocking, you'll want to invest in something with a bit more power. If you actually want to read more into how power supplies work, and deliver power, head over to Xbitlabs: http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/cases/
The key piece of info you need to know about a new PSU is what is it's sustained wattage at 12 volts. That's the voltage that feeds both the CPU and video card and is where the most watts is drawn from. Rarely if ever on a modern PC that a PC would use more than a combined 50 watts from the 3.3 volt and 5 volt parts of the PSU.
That's why je_saist says a good efficient 500 watt PSU will pretty much take care of any CPU and single GPU video card combo out there. The exception to that rule is the GTX 480 from nVidia which is an utter power hog.
Note that most store bought PCs use a standard size ATX PSU in standard size cases, not the thin low profile cases. Problem is a lot of PSU manufacturers that target the DIY market have a tendency to make PSUs that are a tad bigger than the original standard to accommodate 135mm side fans or modular cable connectors. Look for PSUs that are no more than 140mm/5.5" deep. The other two dimensions should be 150mm/5.9" wide and 86mm/3.4" tall and shouldn't be different between PSUs.
Expect to pay about $15 per 100 watts for a good quality PSU unless you find one on sale or with a rebate.
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Excellent. 500W it is.
Thanks!
So I bought a off-the-shelf computer from the local BuyMore
and had a few questions.
1) Power Supply. It came with a 300W power supply. I added a second fan and a video card that recommends having a 400W power supply. I currently have no problems with performance.
Question 1: Should I upgrade the power supply immediately or only if I add additional 'stuff' like say if I modify the case to put in funky lights?
2) Temperature. Running hot is a bad thing. I put in a second fan (donated by the previous comp) and will shut off the comp when not in use. However, the gaming room / gym/ workshop is a converted garage that gets hot in the summer and cold in the winter. (it doesn't freeze, but the mountains on my beer bottles turn blue).
It's the summer though that has me curious and slightly concerned.
So I'm thinking of adding a temperature probe.
Question 2: What is the maximum safe operating temperature of the internal area of a computer before shutdown is needed?