Question about adding internal HD


 

Posted

I'm getting ready to switch my desktop PC from XP to Windows 7. I've been using removable media for backup, but in order to facilitate cleaning the C: drive for the upgrade, I'm considering buying a second internal hard drive as a backup drive.

What I had in mind was to install the second hard drive, copy everything I want to keep on it, then wipe and install the new OS on the original drive. Is that a feasible option? I want to make sure there are no unpleasant surprises, like Win 7 not reading docs on a hard drive created with XP.

If it would work, is there anything I should look out for when selecting or installing an additional internal drive? I'm not a hardware expert as you can tell, but I have installed memory, graphic cards, and a power supply before.

My case is a mid-tower with 4 internal drive bays, and only one is currently being used. Anything else I need to consider before buying?


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
I'm getting ready to switch my desktop PC from XP to Windows 7. I've been using removable media for backup, but in order to facilitate cleaning the C: drive for the upgrade, I'm considering buying a second internal hard drive as a backup drive.

What I had in mind was to install the second hard drive, copy everything I want to keep on it, then wipe and install the new OS on the original drive. Is that a feasible option? I want to make sure there are no unpleasant surprises, like Win 7 not reading docs on a hard drive created with XP.
Yes, an installation of NT6 will be able to read data on drive formatted under an NT5 installation. Microsoft pretty much only supports a FAT16, FAT32, and NTFS it's OS's, so that's pretty much the only formatting options you'll have for a new drive.

As a note, the latest commercial release of NT6, Windows 7, won't actually install on an NTFS drive formatted under NT5. It will tell you something to the effect of the version of NTFS in use is too old, it will want to do a full format or conversion.

Quote:
If it would work, is there anything I should look out for when selecting or installing an additional internal drive? I'm not a hardware expert as you can tell, but I have installed memory, graphic cards, and a power supply before.

My case is a mid-tower with 4 internal drive bays, and only one is currently being used. Anything else I need to consider before buying?
Not really.

Just make sure that you pick something compatible with the motherboard. That's generally not a problem since residential drives pretty much only come in two formats, IDE and SATA. For the most part an IDE drive will work on any IDE controller, and a SATA drive will work on any SATA controller... maybe not at the maximum speed, but it will boot and run.


 

Posted

The only other issue you need to consider is power - adding another drive WILL add to the load on the power supply. It won't be as much as a beefier graphics card, but you should still factor this in.

If your system is just skating by right now with 1 HD, your graphics card, an optical disk reader, and the mobo, then you might consider upgrading that, as well. If you're not coming close to your PS peak wattage, and aren't going to overload the +12V rail that powers drives and such, you're good.



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Posted

If you're going to add a second drive, why not do the install of win7 directly to it? Copy over what you want so far as data files go and reiinstall everything else. Then you could feasibly dual boot between the two as necessary (although technically, the the os license you upgraded from should no longer be used) -- at the very least, you can revert to XP very quickly if things aren't working.


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Soul Train View Post
The only other issue you need to consider is power - adding another drive WILL add to the load on the power supply. It won't be as much as a beefier graphics card, but you should still factor this in.

If your system is just skating by right now with 1 HD, your graphics card, an optical disk reader, and the mobo, then you might consider upgrading that, as well. If you're not coming close to your PS peak wattage, and aren't going to overload the +12V rail that powers drives and such, you're good.
I was wondering about that. I have a 500w NZXT PF-500 power supply, and it currently runs a graphics card (Nvidia 9800 GT), a sound card, 2 DVD drives, and a hard drive. How can I tell whether I am 'skating by' already?


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Posted

If you have the specs of all those devices, add up the wattage for each.

Off the top of my head, 500W should be enough for all of that, BUT... if you need to 'trade something out' I'd consider losing the second DVD drive (if one's a writer, keep it, and lose the read-only).

The PS you're using has two +12V rails, so as long as you don't connect everything to the same rail, you should be OK. Traditionally power supply wiring harnesses will separate the 12V rails into two accessory harnesses, altho' I have seen some, inc. my Antec Earthpower, that splits out the SATA power taps from the standard Molex taps (used on IDE devices such as IDE drives and optical disc readers).

NZXT PF-500
Intel ATX 12V 2.0 specification supports dual core CPU
Two separate +12V rails provide stable current to CPU, GPU, MB and drives
120mm low-noise cooling fan for efficient heat dissipation
1 x 20+4pin Main ATX connector
1 x PCI-Express connector
1 x P4 Mainboard, 2 x Floppy connectors
4 x SATA , 6 x Peripheral connectors
On/Off switch button
Comes with power cord (OEM package)
+3.3V=34A, +5V=40A, +12V1=16A, +12V2=17A



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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
I was wondering about that. I have a 500w NZXT PF-500 power supply, and it currently runs a graphics card (Nvidia 9800 GT), a sound card, 2 DVD drives, and a hard drive. How can I tell whether I am 'skating by' already?
A halfway decent 500W ps should well able to handle your needs... hard drives just don't burn much. My case has an Antec 500W pushing an Intel quad core 9550 cpu, 4GB ram, 8800GTS vid card, 2 DVD burners and 4 hard drives; a pair of them 1TB models. According to the power calculator (a web page that Father Xmas posted a while back) I'm burning around 400 watts.


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Posted

Thanks, guys! I appreciate the information. Though I may be back when I have the drive in hand for some last-minute installation support--I've never installed a hard drive before.

Speaking of which, I'm guessing that if I buy a 'bare bones' drive from NewEgg I'll also need installation brackets. Is there anything else I'll need?


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
Speaking of which, I'm guessing that if I buy a 'bare bones' drive from NewEgg I'll also need installation brackets. Is there anything else I'll need?
I kind of doubt you'll need brackets. If it's a basic case, you'll end up screwing the drive in. If it's a case with trays/brackets/etc, *usually* they're already provided in the case (either in the hard drive slots, empty - my Sonata II is like this - or in some sort of "rack" or other storage system internally.) Crack the case and take a look at how the current HD is installed, and see if there are other, similar items around inside.


 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
Thanks, guys! I appreciate the information. Though I may be back when I have the drive in hand for some last-minute installation support--I've never installed a hard drive before.

Speaking of which, I'm guessing that if I buy a 'bare bones' drive from NewEgg I'll also need installation brackets. Is there anything else I'll need?
Well, the bare drive is just that, the drive. It'll come wrapped in bubble wrap containing a drive in an anti-static bag. If your machine has a free 3.5" internal hard drive bay it will mount directly; all you'll need is a spare SATA cable and some screws. The brackets are only needed if you're mounting it in a 5 1/4" bay (CD ROM drive bay). I'm assuming your power supply has a free SATA power connector? If not you'll need an adapter to change a 4 pin power connector to a SATA connector.

Did your computer come with spare cables? If not you'll need a SATA cable long enough to reach from the motherboard to the drive... which depends on the size of the case and where the HD bays are. Usually 18" is plenty long enough unless you've some monster case.

The drive mounts into the bay with screws of course, a hard drive uses the same screws that hold the expansion cards in your case so you may have spares of those as well. Technically you use 4 screws to secure the drive... unless you're going to be transporting the case via air freight two is usually enough to keep it out of trouble, particularly if you're just going to sit the case on the floor and leave it alone.

Mounting a drive is really almost one of those "a monkey could do it" things, slide it into the bay, screw it in place, attach the power connector to the drive and the SATA cable to the drive and motherboard. Really nothing in putting the hardware of a computer together is very hard for anyone who knows which end of a screwdriver to hold. It's much easier than configuring software.

I was apprehensive before I built my first computer from scratch but it was easy; just a case of tab A into slot B.


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Posted

This is assuming that you are buying a SATA drive, of course.


If it's an IDE drive (or Enhanced or Ultra IDE) you will need to connect it via an IDE ribbon cable. This is a BIT more fiddly, because you either have to route a second ribbon cable to the secondary IDE connector on the motherboard, OR attach the secondary IDE connector on the existing cable to the drive. And yes, the cable connectors have to be oriented properly and it's not as obvious as the SATA cables are.

If that's what you're up against, I'd spend a few bucks for a six-pack of beer, that you would then use to persuade a hardware geek friend of yours to perform the installation.

Mounting the drive in the computer case (chassis) is pretty much the same for any type of drive.

You might need to get an electronics repair "grab" tool, which basically is a hypodermic needle looking thing with a set of three metal 'claws' at the pointy end - when you press the plunger, the claws relax and spread out, let the plunger go and they contract into the tool, grabbing the small part between them. This will allow you to hold the screw steady with one hand while you get it started with the other hand. These tools are fairly cheap (price and worksmanship) but will save you quite a bit of frustration if you drop a screw into the case and then have to retrieve it.



"City of Heroes. April 27, 2004 - August 31, 2012. Obliterated not with a weapon of mass destruction, not by an all-powerful supervillain... but by a cold-hearted and cowardly corporate suck-up."

 

Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
Definitely a SATA drive, so that should simplify things.

And yes, I have dropped a teeny-tiny screw into the guts of the computer before and know what a PITA it is, so I'll look at the tool kits, too.

Thanks!
Lots of the mini-tool kits include a bunch of computer screws of different types as well... my favorite was a Fellows (I think) that cost around $15 - $20 and has 4 screwdrivers (2 Phillips/2 Standard), a couple of nut drivers, tweezers, grabby tool and a bunch of screws in a small zippered case the size of a paperback book.

In my experience you've a couple of different types of screws, each in a couple of different lengths... a coarse thread and a fine thread. Hard drives use the coarse thread & DVD drives use the fine thread. Actually, pretty much everything except DVD drives use the coarse thread

<edit>
Looking over Newegg they don't seem to have a kit with screws, but they do have all the screws you'll need here for $4 and a nice little tool kit here for $10.


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Posted

The only other thing really to be careful of is don't use any extra long screws to fix the drive in - the shank should be no longer than about 3/8" long and if they don't screw in easily you either have the wrong type of screw or you've crossthreaded it - don't force it.


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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Finduilas View Post
I'm getting ready to switch my desktop PC from XP to Windows 7. I've been using removable media for backup, but in order to facilitate cleaning the C: drive for the upgrade, I'm considering buying a second internal hard drive as a backup drive.
Good plan.

Quote:
Is that a feasible option?
Yes.

Quote:
I want to make sure there are no unpleasant surprises, like Win 7 not reading docs on a hard drive created with XP.
Win7 doesn't read the docs. It reads the filesystem. In that, you're safe. You'll still have to reinstall the applications that read the various file formats (like Office to read Word *.doc and Excel *.xls files). But it's not like Win7 is going to not recognize the XP-formatted NTFS volume.

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If it would work, is there anything I should look out for when selecting or installing an additional internal drive? I'm not a hardware expert as you can tell, but I have installed memory, graphic cards, and a power supply before.
I wouldn't worry horrendously about spindle-speed. You don't need a 10,000 rpm disk for this. Just get yourself a nice, sizeable hard drive with a decent amount of cache on there (helps smooth out throughput speeds).

Are you looking at EIDE (ATA/100-ATA/133)? Or SATA?

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My case is a mid-tower with 4 internal drive bays, and only one is currently being used. Anything else I need to consider before buying?
Again, is it EIDE or SATA? If it's SATA, you have very little to worry about. Simply plug and play. If it's EIDE, you will need to just watch your jumper configuration on the drive (Master/Slave/Cable Select). After that, it's gravy.

As for formatting it up, the first time you format the drive, I'd recommend NOT taking the "quick format" option. Let the system take the time to do the full error checking on the disk. Remember, if you write to a bad drive and can't recover the data it's NOT a backup.



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Posted

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hyperstrike View Post
Again, is it EIDE or SATA? If it's SATA, you have very little to worry about. Simply plug and play. If it's EIDE, you will need to just watch your jumper configuration on the drive (Master/Slave/Cable Select). After that, it's gravy.

As for formatting it up, the first time you format the drive, I'd recommend NOT taking the "quick format" option. Let the system take the time to do the full error checking on the disk. Remember, if you write to a bad drive and can't recover the data it's NOT a backup.
SATA, definitely SATA.

Thanks for the tip about formatting the drive--I'll be sure to do that.


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