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Posts
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Joined
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This isn't exactly a costume bug, but I'm not sure where else to post this.
Basically, Katana characters are holding their swords wrong. The standard grip has the left hand low and the right hand high. Swap the positions of the two hands and it'd be good enough. -
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Clean up user experience issues:
-Contact enumeration performance is insanly slow.
-Allow user to sort contacts based on available missions. This could also assist the first part.
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Or at least automatically filter out contacts with no mishes to give us. Let those appear on another tab or be viewable only when we click an icon. -
Hilarious posts.
By the way, I realise this is a very old thread, but I only just read it. And I found it through a link on a current thread. -
Here's another sort of pull for those with Snipes: The Sliding Snipe.
First off, you need a snipe that has a couple of interrupt reduxes slotted. What these do for you is that they make the later part of the snipe uninterruptible.
What you do is you line up your snipe and fire it off. Then, about 2 seconds into the animation, you run sideways to break LoS. Just as in the Bunny Hop pull, you should shoot through intervening walls to hit your target, who should then be forced to run up to you before being able to retaliate. You could wait for him to come, or you could wait a little while then queue up another attack and step out to finish him off.
If there is no cover, you could instead step backwards to gain distance. This pull works better than the Bunny Hop for my Archery hover-blaster, since I don't have to come down to ground to pull this one off.
Hm. The unfortunate pun was not intended. -
Sand, the worst are the ones who turn around and blame the puller afterwards.
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I believe JohnyX is describing what I call the Bunny Pull. This is a variant of the shoot-and-duck described by Dwimble in his original post.
While the shoot-and-duck method is easy to pull off, it requires that you find a fence or some other largish object to duck behind. More often than not, you won't find what you require in indoor mishes. What indoor mishes have in abundance, however, are corners. And that's where the Bunny Pull comes in.
Click here for the Bunny Pull diagram
STEP A: setup
At position 1, you have LoS (line of sight) to the mob you want to pull. Ensure you are in range.
STEP B: bunny hop
Now, do a jump to position 2. This position does not afford LoS. You can jump any way you want as long as you have your target in your reticle, but I prefer a sideways jump so that I don't lose sight of the mob as I'm jumping.
STEP C: fire-and-forget
While in mid-air, hit your attack. It is important that you do not let go of the jump and direction buttons while you are doing this. It is also important that you still have LoS when you hit your attack (another reason I favour the sideways jump).
STEP D: special delivery
If all this was done correctly, you will fire off your attack after you land at position 2. You wll shoot through the wall to hit your target.
Since there is no LoS, your victim can't return fire and will be forced to rush you. If you have picked your target well (refer to the rest of this thread), there is a good chance that only one mob will come barrelling around the corner after you.
Oddly enough, I've actually never seen anyone use this method of pulling before. It's a lot of fun to execute and can be a lifesaver especially at the lower levels. -
Nice guide, Enan. My main is a Fire/Storm, though he's not quite a Splatroller. For one thing, I started him close to 2 years ago, and Containment wasn't on the cards then. For another, he was built with a certain story/origin in mind, and is not completely min-maxed (no Smoke *sob*).
In teams, I play him more as a support mezzer who happens to do a little damage, and this tends to work out surprisingly well despite what people say about Fire's lack of control. I'd say that my Storm secondary is one major reason for this success.
By the way, I intend to pick up Bonfire eventually, mostly just to add a little more damage to my chain when soloing. According to Sherk's planner, it does a decent 2.727BI of fire damage to a 20' area over 10 tics. This actually puts it at the top of the area damage chart for Fire/Storm, though I am uncertain at this point just how many of those tics we can rely on. I'll be counting on the 10 (8?) second root period of Fire Cages to keep mobs from getting knocked back. If necessary, I could always layer FC for extended rooting.
One last thing: have you considered slotting Flash Fire for damage? Its base disorient duration is a good 30 seconds, and the power actually has a pretty substantial damage component. A Flash Fire (2 dam) --> Fire Cages --> Freezing Rain (2 dam) --> Fire Ball (3 dam) --> Bonfire (3 dam) combo does 21.52 damage to everything in your attack radius in a matter of 9.5 seconds, and that's before factoring in Containment, FR's resist reduction, Hot Feet and Imps. Add in Assault and you've really got a barbeque.
Edit: That's 9.5 seconds of attack time. I believe some of the DoT in that chain would still be ticking after this period, so the chain actually does slightly less damage within this time frame. -
Nice guide, Snakebit. Curiously enough, I was toying with the idea of making a Fire/ blaster with SS for travel and -perception (together with Stealth, for accurate placement of alpha strikes) and Hover for vertical clearance. Now that I've read your guide, I suppose I'll have to surrender to my altitis and create one.
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the only one i've seen is sherk's, and he doesnt update it too much
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Do you have that "unable to read config file" issue? Just go into setup --> configuration --> auto update and untick the "use proxy" box and you should be able to receive updates again.
Edit: I learned about this from Glycerin's post. -
Keltic, it's scary how your post belongs with your signature.
Oh, and /signed.