Cel-shading Tutorial
Say, that's pretty cool. And useful. Almost makes me build up the courage to color some of these pencil scribbles of mine...almost.
"If I had Force powers, vacuum or not my cape/clothes/hair would always be blowing in the Dramatic Wind." - Tenzhi
Characters
Ahh, it's interesting you use a mostly subtractive-method for rendering value; that is, cutting out areas you want brighter than adding shadows.
In regard to step 2, I inked with a mouse twice before I got a tablet and holy cow.. what a time consuming, mind-numbing experience. After that I went back to inking with a real pen and scanning the linework until I could afford a tablet.
I tried the route you use, of using the pen tool to get vectored lines, but really I've found the best solution is just to ink with a tablet. (I don't know if you have one.)
If you feel Photoshop's lines aren't crisp enough you can either use the sharpen filter (I suggest fading that effect by about 50%), the Sharpen tool (usually R shortcut on the keyboard), or inking at 2 to 3 the size that you want the image to be then shrinking down. (I know several artists who use the final technique effectively.)
I prefer Painter for inking, because I tend to get crisper, more expressive lines there than in Photoshop. Really, I think you deserve some kind of masochist badge for inking with a mouse.
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I agree. I have a tablet, but I can't get enough control over line widths with it, so I end up back on the mouse.
@Liz!
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Yes. I have a Intuos, but it's really more a matter of my hands not being very digital-friendly in that regard.
It works for the roughs, but when I want to clean up the lineart it just doesn't get the crisp result I'm looking for, even at high-res.
I suppose I could trying to go up to 4000px and then down to 2000px after the lineart.
Yes. I have a Intuos, but it's really more a matter of my hands not being very digital-friendly in that regard.
It works for the roughs, but when I want to clean up the lineart it just doesn't get the crisp result I'm looking for, even at high-res. |
Also, I found that a smaller tablet is much easier to work with as an artist, but you don't have to buy a new tablet if you have a large one. (I consider large 9x12" and up.) You can also set up in the tablet configuration a specific sized drawing area to work in. Smaller strokes are usually cleaner with fewer mistakes.
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I have the opposite problem. I can't stand having a tiny tablet. My arm wants to move much more than the tablet will allow and I can't properly translate the scale effectively. I'd be much happier with a 1 to 1 movement from the tablet to the screen. :<
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I started with a 9x12" tablet which was very, very nice. But holy cow I had to make these gigantic arm movements to do anything. In college I used that tablet at my apartment and 4x5 graphires in the lab. The graphires were lower quality but the size comfort made up for that. 5yrs later I downsized and upgraded to an intuos3 6x8" and boy howdy what a comfort difference.
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I never thought of doing stage 4 the way you did - that's kind of cool, man.
Yeah, I used to do the regular "draw darker tones" cel shading, but this lets me tweak things on the fly more.
For those that may be interested, I've posted a basic tutorial of how I do my "cel-shaded" art.
Check it out here