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Is it any particular power or circumstance that accompanies the crash?
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Quote:I'd actually do the RAM last. 2 GB is enough to run the system and use the hard drive as virtual memory. That will mean memory access will be as slow as your hard drive and load times will be longer than if you had 4 GB, but it's not going to have as much influence on what you see on your screen as a new graphics card. Regardless of how powerful the rest of the machine is, if you don't have the graphics processing power, visuals are going to suck. So the first things are a new graphics card and power supply to run it.At the present time, I could only spend about $300 for upgrades. With that limited budget, I would have to decide which needs to be upgraded first. The others would have to wait until more funds are available. I don't want to scrimp on upgrades now just so I can get them all, would prefer to do what I can at each stage so I don't have to do it again later. But I would like to have them all done prior to GR going live.
So this is what I am thinking as to the order in which to replace components, and I may be wrong as I don't know how to build computers. Replace the Power Supply first so that I have the slots available for the video card and upping the RAM to 4G. Then the video cards and the CPU chip (which is greek to me but I'll figure it out).
Feel free to correct me and recommend the proper order in which to replace components... I won't be offended.
For Ultra Mode graphics card, I'd agree with Hyperstrike above: a 5770 from XFX for $160. As much as it pains me not to grab the irony of suggesting this to someone with your forum name, I can't justify the $10 difference inside your budget.
For power supply, I'd recommend the above-linked Corsair 400 Watt for $55. It's your cheapest option straight up, has free shipping, and fits the required spec with good build quality and solid reputation.
That's $215 out of your budget of $300. At that point I'd stop and see what you think of performance in the game. Is it good enough for what you want? If yes, then stop. If loading times and stutters from disk-access are bothering you, then upgrade the RAM. If game performance and static frames-per-second are still a bit low for you, look at a CPU upgrade: the above configuration is kind of Fiddler Crab-ed in that you have a fairly powerful graphics card with a very weak CPU. CoX doesn't take that much in the way of CPU, but you can end up with a situation where the CPU simply can't send frames to the graphics card as fast as the graphics card can draw them. I have suspicions that will be the case here, but you would be the only one to know it and your opinion is the only one that counts.
If you decide to upgrade the processor, I'd recommend either a E5300 2.6 GHz dual-core for $67 or a E6500 2.93 GHz dual-core for $80. The E6500 is both a little faster itself and uses a slightly higher system bus speed than the E5300. Your system's nForce 620i chipset should be able to support either one.
If you decide to upgrade the RAM, well then you need to first actually pop the side off of that case and look inside. I can't tell from the online specs if your system has just two RAM slots or four. If it's just two, then you will need to buy 4 GB of new RAM for about $100. If there are four slots and you can figure out what speed of DDR2 you are using/able to use, then you can just buy 2 GB for about $50 and put it in the two open slots.
Quote:Next question... once I obtain the parts, I should have no problem replacing them should I? I have changed out parts in my computer before, ie: video cards, power supplies.. but I have not changed anything to do with the CPU. I just want to be sure I can do this myself without messing things up.
Edit: fixed typo. -
Quote:It may or may not be more cost-effective to get a new machine rather than upgrading the existing one. Most, if not all, pre-built dealers use the graphics card as something to skimp on to save price; they presume that anyone who is interested in high-quality gaming will be willing to shell out $1200+ or so.Thanks for the info. Sounds to me like just buying a new system would be more cost effective than upgrading parts. Although, this system is just a little over a year old and is actually a decent system for other applications I use. I hate the thought of just abandoning it for a new system, or just purchasing a new system to play a game. Just doesn't seem practical to me. Amazing out quickly computers become outdated, however, I don't believe the salesperson was listening when I told him what I needed for this system. It was prebuilt, so I didn't choose the components. I just told him what was required of the system and he said he made sure that CoH would run properly on it.
I didn't realize it was an onboard video card, but I haven't looked inside the computer since I've had it. As far as the RAM goes, I realized I would need to bump that up when I saw what I had.
I'm not totally inept about computers, but as far as how the components work together for the best performance were unknown to me. You guys have given me some much appreciated information to consider.
The people in this section could give you more advice on what your options are if you could give a budget you're comfortable with. -
Quote:Okay:Yeah I am using Vista. I got mine to work, but not sure how. The boyfriend's computer is doing the same thing. Vista too. LOL GO figure!
Right click on the shortcut you are using for CoX and select "Properties".
In the field labeled "Target:", go to the end of the text in that field and then type " -compatiblecursors" (without the quotes, but with the space before the dash).
So it should look something like:
"C:\Program Files\City of Heroes\CohUpdater.exe" -compatiblecursors
(Note, you can have more than one flag at the end there, just put a space before each one.)
Then click OK.
That will activate /compatiblecursors when the game loads and should fix your problem until such time as they track down that bug (again). -
Quote:Normally I'd be out in front of you arguing against anything with an 80mm fan, but the Antec Earthwatts 430 is actually the cheapest power supply that fits the power requirement among Silent PC Review's list of recommended power supplies. (At least ones that are still in production.)All other things being equal, I'd actually avoid the Antec for two reasons.
I've used Antec PSU's in the past. Have NOT been impressed by them (had several failures). I know the Earthwatt line has fair reviews, but my experience with several lines of Antec PSU (including Earthwatts) hasn't been good.
Second is the use of the 80mm fan (loud, compared to the others with the 120mm fans).
Again, this is all personal preference. YMMV. -
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Quote:I'd recommend these as well.3: Also, note that all of the above cards require at least 1 (I believe both the 5830 and 5850 require 2) 6-pin PCI-E power connectors from your power supply unit.
If you still have the default Acer Power Supply unit in, it's a 250W unit and probably will NOT support any of the cards above. In which case you're likely talking about upgrading your PSU too.
Here's about the lowest cost unit I'd actually trust.
Here's one that's a couple bucks more that I've actually used in systems before.
Corsair is a quality brand at affordable prices and the specific model of Antec power supply there gets rave reviews. The Antec is somewhat higher build quality than the 400 Watt Corsair, is slightly more efficient (less of the electricity you pay for is lost as heat), and very quiet. Either one would support a 5770 card. The 550 Watt Corsair would support a 5830 or 5850. -
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What are the capabilities of the various onboard chipsets? I know that Realtek ALC888/9 chipsets show up on some of the mid-to-high-end boards, but how does it differ from an ALC662? Or the VIA or ADI chipsets?
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Quote:There's supposed to be an option for it as well in the Menu. To open the menu without a mouse pointer, press the \ key. Don't type it, just press \. That will open the menu, then hit "o" for options.I am having the same problem on my laptop, but typing that didn't fix it.
Is it correct that you are using Vista? If yes then it's probably the old bug again. If not, something new may be going on. Regardless, file a bug report using the /bug command. -
That works. If you have any questions on specs for the new machine, feel free to come back here.
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Quote:All I could find about the Power Supply for that model was that it was "300 Watts". A graphics card upgrade may or may not require a power supply upgrade too.If it does run, you're probably looking at the lowest settings on everything and low resolution, probably with graphics errors. The good news though is that you've enough computer horsepower otherwise and if the machine has a PCI Express slot you ought to be able to drop an inexpensive video card in; check out the "ultra mode shopping guide" thread for ideas there.
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Quote:It likely will run the game weakly. The game prefers to have at least two processing cores and the Celeron 450 is a single core. The ATI 4500 graphics is likewise very weak. If you were running it on a small monitor resolution, you might be able to play to your satisfaction, but it would definitely be at low resolution.I'm buying a friend of mine a new Dell, just for the fact that her current computer can't run COH. I bought it last night on dell.com but now I'm starting to worry that with an Integrated Intel® GMA X4500 GraphicsSpecifications - Video Card, she may still have problems. Can anyone advise if this computer is good enough to run the game. It doesn't have to be the best, but we want to be able to play together. While we're at it, if it is enough to play the game, any chance it'll run ultra mode?
Inspiron 560
Processors Intel® Celeron® 450 (2.2GHz,512K L2,800MHz)
Specifications - Processors
Operating System Genuine Windows Vista® Home Basic SP2, 64-Bit
Memory 2GB2 Dual Channel DDR3 SDRAM3 at 1066MHz- 2 DIMMs
Hard Drive 320GB5 Serial ATA Hard Drive (7200RPM) w/DataBurst Cache
Video Card Integrated Intel® GMA X4500 Graphics
Sound Integrated 7.1 Channel Audio
Now, you could upgrade both the processor and the graphics capability (assuming the motherboard has a PCIe x16 slot), but it would cost roughly half of your $260 purchase price or more.
I'd say try it and see if it "just runs" the game to your satisfaction. If not, you can come back here and we can try to fit something into your available budget. -
Quote:I love how they pointed out all of Nvidia's proprietary software tools while trying to find something good to say about the cardsWell here's a review of them from Tom's Hardware. http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/...-480,2585.html
Basic rundown: They're generally faster but cost a chunk more than 5870s and 5850s, are quite power hungry and run very hot. The single-chip 480 runs hotter and hungrier than a dual-chip 5970. Yikes..
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Quote:Thank you for specifically mentioning this, it had completely slipped my mind to do so.There is one other issue, and that is all other things being equal, running a power supply significantly under its rated maximum will likely cause it to run cooler than its design limits, and as a result run its fans much slower which reduces noise levels.
A 9800 GX2 is two 9800 GT-class chips in the same package. Essentially it is its own SLI in a single slot. Whether Ultra Mode will support multi-GPU configurations like SLI (Nvidia) and CrossfireX (ATI) is, I think, still unconfirmed. -
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Ouch.
XFX is the number two Nvidia manufacturer behind EVGA; they branched out a year ago to also making ATI cards. -
Quote:Refer to this image and this image (hopefully the links directly to the images work).Quick question: I'm planning on replacing my graphics card but the new one requires 450w (ATI Radeon HD5830).
I opened up my case to look at my power supply and it says max 385w at 50 degrees C or max 460w at 60 degrees C.
What does this mean? That my current power supply would work but the system be hotter with all the possible complications that entails?
Ideas, recommendations? All help appreciated, thanks
The two labels are for 750 Watt and 730 Watt power supplies respectively. Look at the first chart; see the "+3.3, +5, +12, etc" across the top? Those are the various voltages that different components in your computer require to run. The row beneath that lists the amperage (amount of current) that the power supply can output at the given voltages. The value we're concerned with here is the "+12" volt rating.
Now, little math: Wattage = Amperage x Voltage. In the case of the first label-image, we have 60 Amps at 12 Volts - a total of 720 Watts output.
Now look at the second label-image. In this one, there are four listings for "+12 Volts". This is because the power supply has been built with several weaker "rails" for 12 Volt output that work together. A few years ago, most power supplies started moving to this kind of design for 12 Volt output. This gave some advantages in construction, but also added new complications like trying to balance the load across all the weaker components evenly. More recently, manufacturers have been moving back to robust, single-rail designs. In a multi-rail configuration like this, you have to rely on the manufacturer's listing for Combined Wattage across all the 12 Volt rails - in this case 672 Watts. Note that 16 Amps x 4 rails x 12 Volts is 768 Watts, not 672; the difference is the physical limitation of multiple rails trying to work together rather than a single one able to work at its max.
That output at 12 Volts is really all you need to see to figure out if a power supply will support your CPU + graphics card configuration. Depending on what your CPU is, it could have a power draw anywhere from 45 Watts to 130 Watts. The 5830 graphics card will have a draw of around 100 Watts. I would note however that it's a really good idea to have some head room of output above what you precisely "need". Firstly, the efficiency of the power supply (how much of the electricity you are paying for is lost as heat) presents itself as a curve across the potential output. The best efficiency is likely going to be somewhere around the 3/4 max-output mark (varying with model) and drop off as you approach 100% output. Furthermore, power supplies will degrade in performance with age and use. So a "pad" of potential output will give you a longer service life at a given load.
If you're shopping for power supplies, Corsair is a very good brand. They'll give solid performance and reliable build quality at a fair price. Some people like Antec offerings as well, but I can't speak to those. Depending on the model, Enermax can be excellent while still not breaking the bank. My personal favorite is Seasonic, but while they tend to offer superior quality and performance to everyone else, it comes at a premium in price as well.
Unless you have specific reasons for wanting a 5830 at a given price point, I'd recommend that you read some online reviews of the card. The general consensus on the 5830 is that it's a good card, but is a priced a bit high for its capabilities. The lower 5770 and higher 5850 seem to be better values for their cost. -
Just as a note: the way RWZ was "built", it tends to have texture-pop and take a second to draw itself in when you first enter - even on strong systems.
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Quote:Jeez! Just last week it was $470; up from the $420 it debuted at.http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product...-872-_-Product
And the more expensive Sapphire. Yikes on that price. -
Quote:Neat, you fell through the map. Been a while since I've heard of that happening.look this screenshot http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/6...0320145827.jpg where i'm?
Remedies: type "/stuck" (without the quotes of course). If that doesn't work, team with a friend who has Recall Friend and have them port you to them. If that doesn't work and you have one available, use a self-teleport such as the Pocket-D porter, Mission Door porter, Market transporter, or Ouroboros Portal. -
I've never even heard of such an animal. Does the exhaust vent on that model go all the way across?