Question on customizing from a figure model kit


Davion_ofLiberty

 

Posted

I've seen a few threads in this forum about modeling and customization of hero figure sculptures. And while I've found some very useful tips from these threads, I have a fairly specific question on customizing from an existing model kit that I haven't seen answered.

As it turns out, my main character, Davion (view here) , after his post-I7 jacket change has a costume that is very similar in many ways to the Rocketeer character. And though that was not what I was originally shooting for when I made that change, it does appear to present me with a rather interesting opportunity. Recently I stumbled across some 1/4 scale Rocketeer model kits on ebay ( sample image) , which come in 6 unassembled parts: left arm, right arm, torso, legs, helmet and jet pack. Since the helmet and jetpack are completely separate pieces, they can be left out entirely since Davion wouldn't need them.

The legs and head are almost perfect for my needs. First, I don't plan to alter the original model kit when I recieve it in any way. I'm planning to make rubber molds of the existing pieces and then cast new parts for the needed alterations. I am already familiar with casting from molds for chess kits, mostly pewter but I do have the resources for alumilite castings though I've never done them. I know that alumilite won't melt or deform at temps below 425 degrees or so, where sculpey bakes at 225. as such I know I could cast the torso with alumilite and add the mask and hat with sculpey and then later baking the sculpey additions over the alumilite cast to make them permanent. I should be able to do something similar with the straps on the boots.

The challenges I see and the tips I'm looking for, since I am not a sculptor in any way, shape or form, are some issues with too many buttons on the jacket, and the gun in one hand (which Davion would not carry). If I recast the parts in alumilite or any resin, carving off the gun and buttons will be a pain in the neck. It would be simplest for my goal if I could cast the torso and the arm holding the gun with sculpey, reshape, cut or smooth off what I don't need or want and then bake it. But the problem I see with the experiments I've done from some of my existing chess molds is that sculpey doesn't really seem to like to come out of the mold all that great. The best result I've had was to put the sculpey and mold in the freezer for about half an hour. The sculpey did more or less keep it's shape without deformation this way (while it deformed badly without the time in the freezer), but it didn't want to come out of the mold all that well, and broke off in pieces.

Any tips from those with experience in such matters on a better way to get rid of those buttons and that gun on a casting? Or am I already on the right track with the frozen sculpey idea and just need to find a better way to release from the mold?


 

Posted

There are some styles of durable silicon rubber, i think, that you can use to make press molds for sclupey, however I'm not sure about casting the figure and then doing a push mold version of sculpey and baking that.

Resin is easy to sand so removing the buttons should not be a problem at all from a casting (good call on keeping the original kit intact). You can also use a file/rasp that is somewhat fine to remove the buttons too, or a dremel tool with a sanding drum. Just work with a dust mask at the very least or outside so you're not breathing in the resin dust.

as for the gun in the hand, well I can't tell how big the gun actually is in his hand, If the hand has a tightish grip on the gun you can just cut/dremel down what you don't need and turn it in to a fist.

Another option is if your mold material is easily or semi easily destroyable then you could get a 2 part epoxy resin like magic sculpt or at worse plumbers epoxy. These have a chemical reaction and will harden up after parts A are mixed with parts B. The plumbers epoxy should work like clay but a bit sticky, the magic sculpt works that way for sure and you can use talcum powder as a release agent or to keep it from sticking to your hands.

Now what you can do is cast the torso in your rubber, then push freshly mixed magicsculpt into the mold and let it sit for about 3 hours or so which is when it will finally kick and become rock solid, if it doesn't come out of the mold then just tear the mold apart, you can drill/sand/carve/scrape/file the magicsculpt down where you want and add more to cover up any holes or whatnot. The great thing is you don't need to bake it.


Djeannie's Costume Creator Overhaul Wishlist
Carnie Base

"Once the avalanche has started, it is too late for the pebbles to vote" -Kosh

 

Posted

Interesting. This is the first I've heard of magic sculp. I'll look into this to see if it will work for what I want to do. Right now it looks like I'll probably stick with sanding and cutting on a resin cast, but I'll continue experimenting with other options.


 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
Interesting. This is the first I've heard of magic sculp. I'll look into this to see if it will work for what I want to do. Right now it looks like I'll probably stick with sanding and cutting on a resin cast, but I'll continue experimenting with other options.

[/ QUOTE ]

The good thing about resin is that you can use the epoxie putties for cleaning up holes and adding details. Aves epoxie sculpt is another brand that modellers swear by.


Djeannie's Costume Creator Overhaul Wishlist
Carnie Base

"Once the avalanche has started, it is too late for the pebbles to vote" -Kosh