Sculpting Question...


Black_Mute

 

Posted

I know there are many people watching this thread, at this point, so I just wanted to mention, I have started work on my first peice. I know I haven't made a post in here for awhile, so I wanted to keep everyone posted. I'm having some setbacks, but everything seems to be proceeding steadily, if just a tad slowly.
I'm trying to make sure to take pics of the entire process.


 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
I know there are many people watching this thread, at this point, so I just wanted to mention, I have started work on my first peice. I know I haven't made a post in here for awhile, so I wanted to keep everyone posted. I'm having some setbacks, but everything seems to be proceeding steadily, if just a tad slowly.
I'm trying to make sure to take pics of the entire process.

[/ QUOTE ]



Well I am greatly interested in this man!!


If your still accepting commissions for this please let me know in a PM!


Can't wait to see your process and final product!


 

Posted

I very much appreciate the support of everyone on these forums. It's quite inspiring, actually.

As for commissions, I'm saying 'no' in the sense that I'm not gonna make anyone REALLY pay for anything I'm making right now, as it's not guarenteed to be of fantastic quality. All I ask, if I select your character to make a model of, is a bit of compensation based on the fact that this stuff is kinda pricy. I'm thinking $50 a peice?
I'm purposefully quoting a bit high, 'cause I'd rather drop my price, than raise it.


 

Posted

Jannus,

I am still doing my research and eagerly await your images. StaticThunder would be willing to kick in the 'fee' when you feel ready.


 

Posted

Anyone have any suggestions on how to smooth out a piece, so it's not so lumpy? I'm thinking I may try getting it as nice, and smoothed out as possible, and then baking it for maybe half the required time, so as to firm it up some, but not fully bake it, followed by some sanding/carving...


 

Posted

Mm, my experience is that half-baking it doesn't allow it to cure, and can cause fractures and chipping. You should look into some smoothing tools but I mostly use a finger and simply rub it gently until it smooths out under my fingers with the warmth from my skin ;P


 

Posted

Yeah, that's what I've been doing so far, but not only is it slow-progress, at best, but worse still, the warmth from my fingers seems to be somewhat counter-productive, as it causes more lumps to appear where I'm holding the model, while trying to smooth out the lumps elsewhere...
Meh, I'll keep experimenting!


 

Posted

How thick are you building it? And what kind of armeture are you using?


 

Posted

around 1/8 inch mostly. Some thicker areas, as needed (fist is solid, probably about 1/4-1/3 inch block).

Armature? Hahaha, I'm poor, I'm using aluminum foil.


 

Posted

Aluminum foil is perfectly fine for armeture Keeps the pieces nice and lightweight, and the foil helps with baking. The only other suggestion I can give you is to set the piece on a block of sculpey, and then set the sculpey on a lazy-susan, so you won't have to handle it so much. You CAN experiment with building a rough shape, then baking it FULLY then adding more and baking it again, the only problem is half-baking it, which usually ends in chips. Just a thought


 

Posted

Very good to know, I'll likely end up doing just that. Especially considering my character in question uses the cuffed style gloves and boots. I'll likely get the body generally together, bake it, and add details such as the cuffs, the cape, the shoulder-pads, etc. In fact, I may just use that technique for adding the belts and buckles to his boots and gloves, too. I've been wondering exactly how to takle that aspect of his costume for awhile...that seems it might be the easiest way.

When doing that sort of thing, do you recommend getting some TLS?

As of right now, though it's a bit of a goal, I don't have a lazy-susan yet.


 

Posted

Mm I haven't used that actually... while it looks cool, I'd be wary of colors fading over time, especially reds.

As for the lazy susan, you should be able to pick one up at Bed Bath and Beyond for about fifteen bucks A lot cheaper than a ceramic 'lazy susan' which usually retails for 40-120 bucks ;P I was lucky and got one for free from my old high school many, many years ago... *suddenly feels old*


 

Posted

I'm not sure if I completely understand what you mean by 'colors fading over time'...?

Perhaps it would help for me to point out that I'm going to be painting these...?


 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
I'm not sure if I completely understand what you mean by 'colors fading over time'...?

Perhaps it would help for me to point out that I'm going to be painting these...?

[/ QUOTE ]

The sculptur that did my statue of Black Mute had to apply a special sealant to protect the paint (automotive varnish) that takes about 48 hours to dry.

If you want me to, then I can PM you the sculptur's e-mail if you have questions about protecting the paint, but he doesn't and I repeat he doesn't do statues anymore. He may be kind enough to answer your questions though.


 

Posted

Black, can we get an image?


 

Posted

It's in my signature under Black Mute and if you look on the DoIDD website, more images are there as well under Black Mute Images.


 

Posted

Thanks. I remember that one now. It was awesome.


 

Posted

Who did the statue?


 

Posted

His name was Arahom Radjah and his company was ARH Studios. You can sometimes find his stuff on eBay.


 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I'm not sure if I completely understand what you mean by 'colors fading over time'...?

Perhaps it would help for me to point out that I'm going to be painting these...?

[/ QUOTE ]

The sculptur that did my statue of Black Mute had to apply a special sealant to protect the paint (automotive varnish) that takes about 48 hours to dry.

If you want me to, then I can PM you the sculptur's e-mail if you have questions about protecting the paint, but he doesn't and I repeat he doesn't do statues anymore. He may be kind enough to answer your questions though.

[/ QUOTE ]

I've painted miniatures for years, and I can definately agree with what he's saying here.


Personally I've found two options. Buy expensive paints that won't rub off or flake, but that also don't mix very well so you need to buy another expensive color for each shade (and you're screwed if you mess up)... or buy cheap acrylic paint for 70 cents a tube, mix it all you want, and then afterwards hit the whole model with a fine coat of spray on clear acrylic coat.

I FAR prefer the latter method.

Zeus - god of prefrences


 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
Anyone have any suggestions on how to smooth out a piece, so it's not so lumpy? I'm thinking I may try getting it as nice, and smoothed out as possible, and then baking it for maybe half the required time, so as to firm it up some, but not fully bake it, followed by some sanding/carving...

[/ QUOTE ]

You can use a soft brush and either water or as pure as you can get rubbing alcohol. Mind you that it will smooth out very fast so be careful or you'll destroy detail.

If you bake it you can then just sand the rough areas smooth. You can add more sculpey to a baked area by first applying a thin layer of vasoline and wiping it off leaving behind a residue that helps the unbaked clay adhere to the baked clay as you sculpt, then re-bake.


Djeannie's Costume Creator Overhaul Wishlist
Carnie Base

"Once the avalanche has started, it is too late for the pebbles to vote" -Kosh

 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
Yeah, that's what I've been doing so far, but not only is it slow-progress, at best, but worse still, the warmth from my fingers seems to be somewhat counter-productive, as it causes more lumps to appear where I'm holding the model, while trying to smooth out the lumps elsewhere...
Meh, I'll keep experimenting!

[/ QUOTE ]


The link i sent you has many plans for an armature sculpting stand which will help prevent the fingers marring your figure, You can also clamp your figure's armature into a vice to hold it while you work on an area, or hold it by the exposed wire from the armature.

EDIT: these stands will cost about 20$ or so to build with all parts buayble at a Home Depot style store. If you add a positioning wheel (also something you can easily make) it'll add another 10$ or so.


Djeannie's Costume Creator Overhaul Wishlist
Carnie Base

"Once the avalanche has started, it is too late for the pebbles to vote" -Kosh

 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
His name was Arahom Radjah and his company was ARH Studios. You can sometimes find his stuff on eBay.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting. I wonder why he stopped doing them. He used to frequent a forum or two that I do but suddenly dissapeared.


Djeannie's Costume Creator Overhaul Wishlist
Carnie Base

"Once the avalanche has started, it is too late for the pebbles to vote" -Kosh

 

Posted

[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
His name was Arahom Radjah and his company was ARH Studios. You can sometimes find his stuff on eBay.

[/ QUOTE ]

Interesting. I wonder why he stopped doing them. He used to frequent a forum or two that I do but suddenly dissapeared.

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I believe he went to college and also it's possible Marvel and DC were giving him legal issues. He had some really good sculpts of those companies charaters and sold them on his site and eBay regularly. He actually did a cool custom statue of Snake Eyes he was selling on eBay and that's how I met him.


 

Posted

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... or buy cheap acrylic paint for 70 cents a tube, mix it all you want, and then afterwards hit the whole model with a fine coat of spray on clear acrylic coat.

[/ QUOTE ]

This was, in fact, my plan all along...

Though I have a fair amount of sculpting experience, my most recent model experience has been in painting miniatures (WARHAMMER 40K style - though I don't play) and this has always been my technique.